1.) Posting A Trailer for the First Time?
Posting a Trailer for the First Time, Step by Step
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EquineRV.com is very serious about helping you sell your Living Quarters Horse Trailer. So in order for us to help you sell your Horse Trailer with Living Quarters as fast as possible, we need some particular information about your trailer that you'll be asked to enter.
Below is a list of information you'll need to have ready before you post a trailer. Most of the entries are required, some are not as noted below.
All measurements are not required to be exact. Measure the best you can and that should be close enough.
You can print this list for a work sheet. Just copy and paste it to your note pad, email or word program and print.
1.) * Year
2.) * Make (example: Exiss) Model (example: Event XT)
Model is recommended but not required, there are options in the list if you don't know.
Strong Hint: in the Model Drop Down list you can also choose for example, "Mid Tack" or "Reverse Load" or "Slide Out" or the Model of your trailer if it has one, and that will enphasize your choice at the top of the Trailer description area. It tells more about your trailer and looks real good when viewed by others.
3.) * Conversion Company (who did the Living Quarters?)
If you don't know, you'll choose one of these from the Drop Down List:
** Not Listed
** LQ done by Local Shop
** Factory Installed LQ
** Custom Living Quarters
** Homemade
4.) * # of Horses...... 3 Horse, 4 Horse etc.......
5.) * Short Wall Length of your Living Quarters (see "Short Wall Definition" in FAQ for Help)
6.) Trailer Length (see "How to Measure my Trailer" in FAQ) not required
7.) Trailer Width (see "How to Measure my Trailer" in FAQ) not required
8.) Trailer Height ( see "How to Measure my Trailer" in FAQ) not required
9.) * Price
10.) * Features Included
Here you'll see a Drop Down List with these items. Add each feature one at a time from the Drop Down List that applies to your trailer. Your trailer will have at least one of these features.
** Stock/Combo or Cargo
** Drop Down Windows Head Side Only
** Drop Down Windows Both Sides
** Mangers with Storage
** On Board Generator
** Walk Out Escape Door
** Walk Thru Door from the Living Quarters into the Stall Area
** Mid Tack
11.) * Room Style Seating as listed below.
You will choose "one" Room Style Seating from the list below that applies.
** Sofa only
** Dinette only
** Sofa & Dinette or 2 Sofas or a Sofa/Chair (or any combination of)
** Other Seating - which would be a Bench type of seating for very small LQs, or NO seating at all.
12.) * Living Quarter Type: You will have one of these.
Note: A "Standard Living Quarters" is any "Room Style Seating." as mentioned above. Which one describes your trailer best.
** Standard Living Quarters only (No Slide Out - No Bunk Beds)
** Standard Living Quarters and Bunk Beds (No Slide Out)
** Slide Out with a Standard Living Quarters (No Bunk Beds)
** Slide Out and Bunk Beds (has a Standard Living Quarters)
13.) * Bath Style - once you see this, it'll be self explanatory
14.) * Jack Type - Hydraulic or Electric or Manual - (see "Jacks" in FAQ for Help)
15.) * Trailer Description - this area if for any more information you'd like to say about your trailer.
The first line of text, (approximately 50 characters) will show in the Trailer Thumb, so anything you would like to emphasize, say it first in the Trailer Description area.
In this section, we have a Template you can Copy, Paste and Edit that will help you list the detail that applies to your trailer.
If you have any questions, send us an email and we'll get back to you asap. contactus@equinerv.com
Posting, What did I do wrong?
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Posting, What did I do wrong?
Double check your steps from the information below.
Note: Your trailer might be in the system but before it's visible to the Public (Published) you must complete the "Check Out" and payment proceedure.
If you want to post the detail but you do not want to up load any photos yet. Enter the Trailer Detail, click "Save" at the bottom of the page and you'll see a message box. Click "OK" in the message box and you'll be directed to "Check Out".
If you've gone through the payment process and have checked out, and later on your ready to Up Load photos. Log In, go to the "Welcome" area, Click on "My Listings" and locate the trailer you want to add photos to. Click "Edit" and scroll to the bottom of the page to begin up loading photos. Click on the (+) icon, and click on all the photos you want to upload. Then click "Save" at the bottom of the page.
If you posted the trailer detail and you clicked "Save" without up loading any photos and you did not check out. Make sure you're logged in, go to the "Welcome" area, click on "My Listings" and locate the trailer you want to add photos to and/or finish the payment process. Click on the "ERV #" and you should be directed to "Check Out". Once you've gone through the payment process, go back to the "Welcome" area, click on "My Listings" and locate the trailer you want to add photos to. Click "Edit" and scroll to the bottom of the page and begin up loading photos.
Note: Be sure when you're finished to Search for your trailer to make sure it's Published and visible to the public.
Multi and Single Image Up Loader
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More about the Single and Multi-Image Up-Loader, Resizing and etc.
Upload up to 60 photos Allowed extensions png, gif, jpg, jpeg
Although photos are automatically resized for the website, it's to your benefit if you first resize your photos to 1,000 pixels wide or less..... *Uploading will be faster, and *If you need to send additional photos to a buyer, they email faster and he can download them faster.
*** The Multi Image Up-Loader is available when posting a new listing for the first time.
*** A Single Image Up-Loader is also available when you "Edit" a listing.
To use the Multi Image Up-Loader. Click the (+) icon to begin. This opens your browser so you can locate your pictures on your computer. Use your Ctrl or Shift Key to select up to 60+ images. When all the images are placed in que, the up-loading will begin when you click "Save" at the bottom of the page, or if you click on the
"Upload Image" button,
A..) For the Dealer, when Up-Loading has completed, all the photos will be visible on the new listing. To change the detail and/or add or edit photos click "Edit".
B.) For the Individual, when Up Loading has completed you will proceed to check out. To Edit your trailer Detail and/or add Photos, (still logged in) go to the Log In area on the Home Page and click "My Listings", locate the trailer and click "Edit".
Applies to Both the Dealer and the Individual
If you need to re-arrange the photos, place your mouse pointer on the + in the photo, and Drag and Drop the photo in the order you want. When you have re-arranged all the photos click "Save" at the bottom of the page.
Using the "Single Image Up-loader" at "Edit". This might be more convenient if you only need to add one or a few photos. Remove and/or add photos then click "Save" at the bottom of the page.
Using the "Multi Image Up-Loader at "Edit". Click on the (+) icon to begin. When all photos are placed in que, click "Upload Images" to complete the uploading process. If you "Remove" any photos, you must first click "Save" at the bottom of the page before you proceed with the Multi Image Up-Loader.
Problems? contactus@equinerv.com
Photos, Resizing Help and more
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Resizing Help and More
Allowed Image extensions are png, gif, jpg and jpeg and although photos are automatically re-sized when uploading to this web site, it makes it even faster if you first re-size your photos. People will also want you to send them more photos of your trailer and that also speeds up the time it takes to upload and download.
Different cameras take photos with different files sizes. The larger the file size the longer it takes to upload and email, and the longer it takes the person on the other end to download them. If the photo is of a good size, you can send more pictures in one email faster. A photo or image less than 1000 pixels wide but more than 400 pixels wide is a good size and you can still see good detail. It's usually no problem to send 20 or more photos in one email.
You re-size by the width and height of the photo in pixels, the File size is in Megabytes or Kilobytes. A Megabyte (MB) is larger than a Kilobyte (KB). The File size for all practical purposes will adjust automatically when you re-size the photo or image so don't worry to much about it.
If you can't find out how to do this on your computer or don't understand it, Click on the links below to down load and learn how to use free software to re-size your pictures. It's fast and easy.
http://download.cnet.com/Free-Picture-Resize-Starter/3000-12511_4-102977...
http://www.avs4you.com/AVS-Photo-Editor.aspx
The link below is a great youtube on resizing images, simple and easy to understand.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bNimwNLgT1E
For more help on making your photos look good, see also in FAQ, (Photo Help)
Need help with your Trailer Discriptioin?
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The "Trailer Description" area is for anything else you want to say about your trailer. Taking a good set of pictures answers a lot of questions.
Using the information below makes it faster to put detail in the Trailer Description area when you're Posting a trailer. It also helps you remember the important details about your trailer. Use it if you want to.
You can Copy, Paste and then Edit the detail below to fit your trailer. High light the information below, then on your Menu bar select Edit then select Copy - go to the Trailer Description area on the Post page and from Edit, select Paste. Then make changes to fit your trailer.
If you're not sure about something, just erase the line.
When you're finished, just make sure your trailer has everything you listed.
** The first line of text shows in the Trailer Thumb, so use this first line wisely.
** About the Trailer:
14 Ply or 10 Ply Radial Tires with Spare?
Electric/Hydraulic Brakes - or you may have just Electric Brakes
Drop Down Windows w/ Drop Down Window Bars on Head Side?
Drop Down Windows on Butt Side? - or you may have Sliding Windows or Stock Sides
Hay-rack?
Stud Panel on 1st Divider, do you have this?
Collapsible Rear Tack or Permanent Rear Tack?
Outside Area Lights?
Rear Ramp? - if not just delete this line
LED Lights?
** About the Living Quarters:
Onan 4.0 Gas Generator in last Manger? or maybe it's on top of your trailer
Sofa Sleeper & Swivel Chair? - or Dinette or maybe you've got a Bench Seat
Awning?
Soft-Touch Walls & Ceiling or Paneling?
Pocket Door into Bathroom?
Vanity - Sink, Medicine Cabinet w/ Mirror?
Kitchen Sink?
Day/Night Shades?
Queen Size Mattress?
LCD TV on Swivel Arm in Bed area
6.0 Cu. ft. Refrigerator? or maybe you have the small 3.0 Frig.
Convection/Microwave Oven? or just a Microwave
Recessed Three Burner Cook Top? or 2 Burner Cook Top?
DVD Player?
AM/FM CD Player?
Exterior Speakers?
Ducted 13,500 BTU A/C? - or maybe your AC is Direct Discharge ?
Furnace ?
Fresh Water Tank?
Black & Gray Holding Tanks?
12 volt Batteries? How many?
Monitor Panel?
Exterior Water Faucets?
Propane Bottles?
RV Door w/Full Screen Door?
Steps at the RV Door?
2.) How to operate your Living Quarter Horse Trailer
Step by Step what to do and when.
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How to operate your Living Quarter Horse Trailer
Other areas of FAQ have a lot of detail about specific items in your Living Quarters, but the information below will help you with the do's and don't about operating your Living Quarter Horse Trailer.
You should never use an extension cord to extend the length of the power/shore cord to operate the roof air unless it's of the proper wire size. You can normally use a standard 12 or 14 gauge extension cord if your just wanting to run the frig or other smaller appliances.
*** While your trailer is just sitting at the house waiting to go on a trip.
1) If there is a Main ON/OFF Switch at or near the Batteries, Turn it OFF.
2) If you want any of the appliances on, plug in the Power Cord (shore cord). (batteries still OFF)
** The Power Cord has a large 3 prone 30 amp plug on it. If you want to run the Roof Air you need to use this plug. If you don't have a large 30 amp receptacle for this size plug, you can't (normally) run the Roof Air. If you want to run the Roof Air, start the Generator if so equipped, and don't plug in the Power Cord.
** If you just want to run the Frig and smaller appliances, use the Adapter and plug in to your normal 120 volt AC Receptacles. Set the Frig to Automatic at the Mode setting if so equipped, or set it to AC if that's the only choice.
An Adapter is a thingy that makes the big plug a small plug. (see FAQ > Electrical > Adapter Plug)
It's possible the air conditioner will function off the smaller plug, but it's a strain on the system - and if it's very hot, the compressor has to work harder and the Roof Air will probably trip the Breaker in your barn or wherever you're plugged in.
*** The Day before you leave on a Trip.
1) If you haven't already done it, Plug the Power Cord (shore cord) in. Use the Adapter if you don't have 30 amp service where your trailer is parked.
2) If it has one, turn the 12 Volt DC Battery Switch "ON". This will insure the Batteries are fully charged before you take off. >> more in FAQ
3) Turn your Frig ON. It will take 8 hrs or so to really cool it down. If you've got the large Frig, set the Mode to Automatic. If you have a smaller Frig, set the switch to AC. (see also, FAQ > Living Quarters > Refrigerators)
*** The Day you're ready to leave.
1) If there are two Propane Bottles, turn them both ON. (see also, FAQ > Living Quarters > Propane Bottle Regulator) If you have an LP Detector that turns OFF and ON, turn it ON. ( see also, FAQ > Living Quarters > Detectors, Safety)
2) Set your Frig to operate on LP (propane). That will keep the food cold while you're driving. If your Frig was in the Automatic Mode (if so equipped) while it was plugged in, make sure it automatically switched to run on LP.
(see also, FAQ > Refrigerators > LP/Propane Operation)
3) Make sure the Fresh Water Tank (if so equipped) is full.
*** When you get to where you're going.
1) You're either going to be Dry Camping, which means you'll be using all the power sources and water that you brought with you, - or you'll be at a facility where you'll be able to Plug in the Power Cord and hook up to a City Water service or ( faucet ) - or maybe a little of both.
2) If you're DRY CAMPING - Turn the Water Pump ON. If you're going to use a garden hose and hook up to City Water - DO NOT TURN THE PUMP ON, you won't need it and it could damage the water pump.
3) If you're DRY CAMPING and you want to use any of the 120 volt AC appliances, i.e. the TV, Satellite, Microwave, Roof Air and etc., - you'll have to start your generator.
4) If you're at a facility and have access to the large 30 amp 3 Prong Receptacle, you can plug the Power Cord in and run all the 120 volt AC appliances including the Roof Air without starting your Generator. Note: Never use an Extension Cord to gain extra length when using the Power Cord, unless it is of a proper size. If the extension cord is to small, it could start a fire.
5) If your only option is the smaller 120 Volt AC Receptacle, you can run some of the smaller appliances like the TV and Frig and keep the batteries charged, but normally you can not run the Roof Air, you'll have to start the Generator.
6) If you want to run the Roof Air and you are not using the Power Cord - Start the Generator first, watch for the Microwave Clock to come on, wait a couple of minutes and start the Roof Air. If the Microwave Clock does not come on, check the 30 AMP Breaker Switch at the Generator and Re-Set if necessary.
7) Make sure the Hot Water Heater has Water in it. If you're not sure, turn the Hot Water side of the Faucet on and see. Let if run for a couple of minutes. If it runs steady with no air sputtering out of it, it's full. If it starts coughing up air, you'll need to let it run longer. What's happening is, the Hot Water Heater is filling up with water and pushing the air out. When you get a steady stream of water with no air hiccups, it's full and it's safe to turn it on. ( see more at, FAQ > Living Quarters > Hot Water Heater)
8) You can turn the Hot Water Heater "ON" and leave it on, or you can turn it on only when needed. It takes about 20 min to heat 6 gallons of water which is the most common size. Using it only when needed will save on propane (LP). You might also have a Hot Water Heater that runs only on 120 Volt AC or you could have one that runs on LP and 120 Volt AC. Most Hot Water Heaters use Propane and 12 volt DC Battery as the ignition, which make them self starting, - you don't need a match. If you don't have a Switch inside you'll need a match to light it outside. The Switch is normally on the Monitor Panel. If you don't find it there or if you don't have a Monitor Panel, it could be a stand alone Switch. Flip the Switch ON and a Red Light should come on. The Red light will come on for a moment while it's trying to light then it will go out. If it lights, the Red Light will not come back on, if it does not light, the Red Light comes back on. Turn it OFF, wait a minute and turn it back on. That starts another lighting cycle.
9) When DRY CAMPING, - always check the Power Status of the Batteries especially when the generator is not running. If the Batteries get to low, the Frig will shut off, the Hot Water Heater will quit, and the Furnace will cease to operate. You will then need to charge the battery(ies). Either from your Pickup or a Generator.
10) Solar Panels are also a great way to keep your batteries charged so you don't have to worry about them running down. (see also, FAQ > Living Quarters > Solar Panels)
3.) Learn how EquineRV.com "is" different from other sites
What makes EquineRV.com different from other sites
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THE PREMIER WEBSITE for NEW AND USED ( LQ ) LIVING QUARTER HORSE TRAILERS FOR SALE
4.) Website Help & Information
Advanced Search, How it works
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Advanced Search
Find Your Living Quarter Horse Trailer Faster on EquineRV.com
If this is your first visit to EquineRV.com;
You can enter your preferences in all 8 Search Fields, or any combination you want - for example:
1.) States - Search number of miles from a zip code, look in just one state, all states or search all neighboring states.....
2.) Make - Search as many Makes as you want at the same time; example I'm interested in: Sundowner, Sooner, and Exiss Trailers.....
3.) Conversion Company - Choose a Conversion Company that you're partial to.
4.) # of Horses - Search just 3 Horse Trailers, or 3 & 4 Horse Trailers, or any combination.....
5.) Short Wall - Search a shortwall length of your liking - for example, search all short wall lengths between 10' and 12' 6" long. (for help, see Short Wall Definition in FAQ)
6.) Price - Choose your price range
7.) Room Style - Choose the Room Style; - Sofa only, Dinette only, Sofa/Dinette, Sofa/Sofa (chair) etc....
Note: a "Standard Living Quarters" means any "Room Style" seating.
8.) Living Quarter Type - Choose the Type of Living Quarters, - for example, pick Slide Out's with or without Bunk Beds, and there's more to choose from.
In just One Click, see all available trailers with your chosen features.
Use Save and Compare explained in FAQ to narrow your search even faster.
To View Larger Images, click on the image thumb and then click the image to view just that image in a larger window. To view the Slide Show, click on "View Larger Images".
If you are a first time buyer, this information might help.
The size of a Living Quarters is determined by the length of the Short Wall - for a better understanding see Short Wall Definition & What is a Standard Living Quarters in FAQ
If you already know the ERV Listing #, enter it in the box at the top of Advanced Search and click Search.
Advertising, Dealers and Vendors
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Advertising Rates
Feel free to contact us with any questions you may have for advertising on EquineRV.com
Contact Us
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Feel free to Contact Us about any issue, question or concern.
Equine RV LLC
PO Box 16
Dawn, TX 79025
All about Dawn, Texas
http://www.tshaonline.org/handbook/online/articles/hnd06
Credit Card Issue?
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If you had an issue using your Credit Card
and you think your credit card should be ok,
contact us, include your phone number and
we'll get back to you asap.
Dealers
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Dealer Package Durations are in 1,3,6 and 12 month payment intervals, paid in advance. All applicable fees at present are $39.00 per month. Choosing the 3, 6, or 12 month payment options will award a discount of $33, $66, $99 respectively, per year.
$39.00 - month to month
$108.75 - if paid Quarterly
$201.00 - if paid Bi-Annual (twice a year)
$369.00 - if paid Annually
If paid by Credit Card (Master Card/Visa) your account is active immediately.
If mailing a Check or Money Order, your Account is active immediately, but will be removed if payment has not been received and allowed to clear within 10 days.
All payment of fees are final. There are no refunds or returns. If a Dealer wants to cancel their obligation and association with EquineRV.com, they need only to cancel their account, and after the currently purchased Package duration ends, the account will go inactive and no more fees will be charged.
The Dealer is responsible for the content of each trailer listing and any photos or videos uploaded with each ad. EquineRV.com expects all transactions between buyer and seller to be of the highest integrity. Equine RV LLC and/or EquineRV.com do not guarantee the sale of a Dealers Living Quarter Horse Trailer. We offer only the tools necessary to aid in the sale of a Living Quarter Horse Trailer and the tools to manage a Dealers online trailer inventory in which tools are included with a paid Dealer Contract. Any Delivery or Shipping fees are the sole responsibility of the buyer and/or seller.
After registration, you can go to your "Account" and edit your dealer profile and upload your business logo that will show on the trailer thumb.
If time is short and you need assitance posting your Living Quarter Horse Trailers, let us know........we can help!
Please feel free to let us know if you have any questions.
Thank you
Disclaimer
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Disclaimer
EquineRV.com has developed FAQ as a Tool to help you Buy a Living Quarter Horse Trailer, Sell a Living Quarter Horse Trailer, how to Operate your Living Quarter Horse Trailer, and ideas on Trouble Shooting your Living Quarters Horse Trailer.
We don't warrant all the information to be exact and complete. More often than not, we have touched on the most likely, the high points, generalities and the common sense details we believe that are as close to true and correct as possible.
We recommend you use your own judgment in all situations, and if you have any doubt, we highly recommend you obtain a qualified service technician for service and repair.
Please confirm with the seller that all posted Options and Detail about the Living Quarter Horse Trailer you are interested in is correct.
Standard Living Quarters, the Definition
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A Standard Living Quarters is any configuration of "Room Style Seating." This could be a Sofa, or a Dinette, or Sofa and Dinette, or Two Sofas, or a Sofa and a Chair, or maybe just Bench Seating, or nothing at all.
Dealers, How to Manage your Inventory on EquineRV.com
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How to Manage your Inventory
Below should answer all questions about how a Dealer can easily Manage his Inventory, with information about Featured Trailers on the Home Page and how to turn on and off the Published option.
More about Featured Trailers / $50 for 30 days on the Home Page
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** Dealers "and" Individuals can take advantage of "Featured Trailers from Motivated Sellers" displayed on the Home Page.
** $50 will place your trailer on the Home Page for 30 days where it will rotate with other Featured Trailers.
** You have the option of buying this spot when you first post your trailer, or you may come back at a later date, log in and make the purchase at "My Listings" from the "Log in Area" on the Home page if you're an Individual, or if you're a Dealer, from "Manage Inventory" in the "Log in Area" on the Home Page.
Save and Compare, Use this to quickly narrow your Search
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How do I use Save and Compare?
Save and Compare is a tool that will quickly help you find your trailer once you've used Advance Search, or you can use it anytime through out the site. You do not have to be logged in to Search for a Trailer or to use Save and Compare.
5.) Measuring a Living Quarter Horse Trailer & More
Short Wall Definition
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Short Wall Definition
Because most Living Quarter Trailers are Slant Loads, the "Bulkhead Wall" that separates the Living Quarters from the Stock Compartment is on a slant. If you have a Slant Load, one of the Living Quarter Outside Walls is Shorter in Length than the other Outside Wall. The distance from the Front of the Trailer ( where the Jack is located ) - to where the Bulkhead Wall starts the slant, is the "Short Wall" and even though the other wall is longer, industry says the size of a Living Quarter is determined by the Length of the "Short Wall".
If you have a "Full Mid Tack", the bulkhead wall that separates the Living Quarters from the Mid Tack is Straight across the trailer, therefore each Outside Living Quarter Wall measures the same, and the Size of the Living Quarters is determined by the length of either Outside Wall. The Bulkhead Wall that separates the "Full Mid Tack" from the Stock Compartment is normally on a Slant.
It's also possible to have a Full Mid Tack that is in a Stall like Configuration. In this case there will be a short wall and a long wall configuration in the Living Quarters.
If you have a "Half Mid Tack", this area is considered part of your Living Quarters when it comes to measuring and determining your "Short Wall" Length.
See also in this section of < FAQ > - helpful prints under "How Do I Measure my Trailer?"
How do I measure my Short Wall?
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How do I measure my Short Wall?
The size of a Living Quarters is always referred to as the "Short Wall Length" of the Living Quarters.
From the Front of the Trailer where the Jack is mounted, measure back to where the Bulk Head Wall starts. The Bulk Head Wall is the Wall that separates the Living Quarters from the Stock Compartment, and is normally on a slant, so the Drivers Side of the Trailer ( Short Wall ) will measure shorter than the length of the wall on the Passenger side of the Trailer ( Long Wall ).
This measurement does not have to be exact, just round up or back to the nearest 6 inches. For example, if you measure 10' 2", that would be closer to 10' instead of 10' 6".
If you're still not sure, send us an email with your phone # and we'll call you asap.
How do I measure my Short Wall if I have a "Full Mid Tack"?
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How do I measure my Short Wall if I have a "Full Mid Tack"?
The size of a Living Quarters is always referred to as the "Short Wall Length" of the Living Quarters.
If you have a Full Mid Tack as shown in the print, measure from the front of the trailer where the Jack is located, back to the Bulkhead Wall that separates the Living Quarters from the Mid Tack. That wall normally runs straight across the trailer, so the Measurement on the Drivers Side will be the same as the measurement on the Passenger side of the trailer.
There is neither a short wall nor a long wall, but the size of the Living Quarters would still be referred to as "Having a Short Wall of ............... ( however long it measures ).
This measurement does not have to be exact, just round up or back to the nearest 6 inches. For example, if you measure 10' 2", that would be closer to 10' instead of 10' 6" so you would enter 10'.
If you have a Half Mid Tack, which means the Mid Tack does not extend all the way across the trailer, but just part of the way, see this section "How do I measure my Short Wall if I have a Half Mid Tack".
If you have any questions, send us an email with your phone # and we'll call you asap.
How do I measure my Short Wall if I have a "Half Mid Tack"?
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How do I measure my Short Wall if I have a "Half Mid Tack"?
The size of a Living Quarters is always referred to as the "Short Wall Length" of the Living Quarters.
A Half Mid Tack ( Half Tack ) does not extend all the way across the trailer like a full mid tack does. And it's considered a part of the Living Quarters when it comes to measuring your short wall. If you have a Half Tack, use this diagram to measure your short wall.
From the Front of the Trailer where the Jack is mounted, measure back to where the Bulk Head Wall starts. The Bulk Head Wall is the Wall that separates the Living Quarters from the Stock Compartment and it's normally on a slant, so the Drivers Sides of the Trailer will measure Shorter than the Passenger side Long Wall of the Trailer.
If you have a Reverse Load, the Short Wall will be on the Passenger side of the Trailer.
This measurement does not have to be exact, just round up or back to the nearest 6 inches. For example, if you measure 10' 2", that would be closer to 10' instead of 10' 6".
If you have any questions, send us an email with your phone # and we'll call you asap.
How do I measure the Height of my Trailer?
Measuring the Height of a Trailer
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How do I measure the Height of my Trailer?
You don't have to be exact measuring the Height, and if you know from Brochures or talking to your Dealer what the Height is, that works too.
Most all Trailers are classified to be either 6' Tall, 6' 6" Tall, 7' Tall, 7' 6" Tall, 8' Tall, 8' 6" Tall and etc.
The answer to height will be one of these, but it's highly doubtful your trailer will measure one of the above exactly so don't worry to much about it.
More often than not, you will measure 2 or 3 inches more than your classified Height, - hardly ever less than the classified Height.
Measure from Floor to Ceiling in the center of your trailer.
Example:
a 7' Tall Trailer might measure 7' 3" tall or 87 inches - (it will measure something a little more than 7')
a 7' 6" Tall Trailer might measure 7' 9" Tall or 93 inches - (it will measure something a little more than 7' 6")
Need Help? Send us an email with your phone # and we'll call you asap.
How do I measure the Length of my Trailer?
Measuring the Length of a Trailer
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How do I measure the Length of my Trailer?
You don't have to be exact in measuring the Length of you Trailer.
Measure from the Front Wall where the Jack is, to the End of the Trailer. Very Simple.
The Length will normally measure out in 6" increments. Example: 23', 23' 6", 24', 24' 6" and so on. If it's not right on, just round it off up or back to the nearest 6".
Need help, send an email with your phone # and we'll call you asap.
How do I measure the Width of my Trailer?
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How do I measure the Width of my Trailer?
You do not have to be exact measuring the Width of your trailer.
If you know from Brochures or talking to your Dealer what the Width is, that works too.
Most Standard Industry Width's are 6', 6' 6", 6' 8" or 6' 9", 7', 7' 6", 8' and 8' 6" wide.
Whatever you measure will normally be close to one of the above, give or a take an inch or so. More often than not, it might measure slightly less.
The Measurement is taken from Outside to Outside on the Trailer Body, and measuring at the rear of the Trailer is normally a bit easier.
Need Help? Send us an email with your phone # and we'll call you asap.
How to determine the square footage of your Living Quarters
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Measuring the square footage of your Living Quarters
To determine the size of a Living Quarters, you must know the square footage of it. This is good if your wanting to compare the size of a standard slant load living quarters with the size of a living quarter that might have a full or half mid tack.
Multiply the Width of the Trailer x the Length of the Living Quarter as indicated below.
This is simple, quick and for all practical purposes, close enough.
If the trailer is a Slant Load with No Full Mid Tack, to know the Length of the Living Quarters, - add 24 inches to the Length of Short Wall B, to equal measurement A.
then multiply that times the Width of the trailer = Total Sq footage.
(see also in FAQ, < Short Wall Definition>)
If you have a Slant Load Trailer with a Full Mid Tack, and you want to buy a Slant Load with No Mid Tack, this is a good way to compare the square footage of each one.
If you're wanting to buy a Trailer with a Full Mid Tack and keep the same size Living Quarter as a Slant Load with No Mid Tack, the trailer would be approximately 2 ft longer than a Slant Load with No Mid Tack.
(You might see also in FAQ, >How do I measure my Short Wall if I have a Full Mid Tack>)
6.) Horse Trailer Living Quarter LQ Floor Plans and Layouts
View 4' to 10' Short Wall Length
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View LQ Short Wall Lengths 4' to 10'
View 11' to 15" Short Wall Lengths
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View Short Wall Lengths 11' to 15'
View 16' and up Short Wall Lengths
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View LQ Short Wall Lengths 16' and up
7.) Help with Buying and Selling a Living Quarter Horse Trailer
Buying Tips for a Living Quarter Horse Trailer
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What you really need to know when buying a used trailer
Most people will give you an answer to your question if you'll just ask the question.
Confirm with the Seller that the Trailer information listed is correct. Briefly go through it again just to make sure there are no mistakes.
1.) Ask about things you can't see; for example: Wheel Bearings and Brakes. Don't wait till you see one of your trailer tires passing you down the road to find out what kind of shape the Wheel Bearings are in. If you're unsure, get 'em packed and replace the seals after your purchase.
The trailer may not be perfect in every respect, and should be priced accordingly - you're just trying to avoid any surprises.
A.) Do the Trailer lights work?
B.) Are there any holes in the Holding Tanks?
C.) What condition are the batteries in?
D.) Does the Roof Air get cold?
E.) Is there a Propane Furnace, Heat Strip in the Roof Air - or both?
F.) Are there any Water Leaks?
G.) When was the last time the Brakes and Bearings were serviced?
H.) How many hours on the Generator and when was the last time it was serviced?
I.) Where is the Fuel Tank for the Generator?
J.) Look at the tires and see how they are wearing.
K.) Do all the Tires Match as far as Size and Brand and what condition are they in?
L.) Door Latches. Do all the latches work ok?
H.) Are there any soft spots in the Floor?
I.) Do all the appliances work?
J.) Will the Light Socket on your Pickup match the Plug on the Trailer?
K.) Are there any issues I should know about?
If the trailer has a Generator, start it and let it run for 5 min, then turn the Roof Air on (depending on outside temperature) and let it run for 15 to 30 min. Does the Generator run smooth with and without a load on it?
2.) Is the Title Free & Clear and up to date? Is the Title in the name of the person you are buying it from? Dealers on the other hand can transfer titles to a new buyer without bringing the title up to date, which means the Title could have the name of the person the Dealer got it from.
3.) Does the trailer have a Title or an MSO? ( Manufactures Certificate of Origin ) If the trailer is new, normally it will have an MSO. If used, it will have a Title in the State it was registered in. Some states do not require that a trailer be titled, only require that the trailer be registered, and then some states don't even require the trailer be registered. So if you are in Arizona and you are buying a trailer from someone in Oklahoma ....... Find out what the person in Oklahoma has for documents, and then visit with the MVD in Arizona to find out if Arizona requires anything else to get an Arizona Title and Tag. This saves lots of headaches.
4.) Ask the owner if they will show you how to operate and use everything in the Living Quarters. If something doesn't work, at least you'd like to know.
5.) If you're buying a trailer with Electric over Hydraulic Brakes, make sure your truck is wired correctly and make sure if you have a factory installed brake controller that it is compatable with the brake system on the trailer.
Don't expect a used trailer to be in perfect condition. But you at least want to know what issues small or large there are so you'll know exactly what you're buying.
Financing for your Living Quarter Horse Trailer
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Your Trailer Dealer will offer financing, but if you're buying from an individual this company might be able to help you.
Southeast Financial
http://www.southefinancial.com/
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This is basically how financing works with or without a Trade In.
For Example:
50,000 - Price of trailer you want to buy
30,000 - Minus what the Dealer is going to give you for your trade-in trailer
20,000 - is how much more you owe the Dealer which is the amount you want to finance
15,000 - maybe an amount you still owe on your old trailer which will need to be paid off
when you make the trade.
15,000 - the Dealer adds this 15,000 to the new bank note and the Dealer is now
responsible for paying off your old trailer.
35,000 - is the new amount to finance. (20,000 + 15,000)
15,000 - is the amount of equity you had in your old trailer.
It depends on the lender, the trailer and your credit, but if the lender normally wants 20% down, 20% of 50,000 = $10,000. You had $15,000 in equity in your old trailer which would be more than enough to satisfy the down payment.
If you owed more on your old trailer than what the dealer is willing to give you, you may still be able to finance the New trailer, but you will have to add money out of your pocket to satisfy the required down payment.
For Example:
50,000 - for the trailer you want to buy
30,000 - Minus what the Dealer will give you for your old trailer
20,000 - is the amount you still owe the Dealer
35,000 - is how much you still owe on your old trailer, you owe $5,000 more than the Dealer will give you
35,000 - is what the Dealer has to add to the $20,000 to pay off your old trailer
55,000 - is where it's at now
11,000 - is the amount the lender wants as a down payment, which is 20% of $55,000
44,000 - is the amount you would be financing.
55,000 - is what you paid for the 50,000 Trailer and you had to come up with $11,000 out of your pocket to get it done, but - you don't have the old trailer payments any more.
And you'll always have to consider Insurance and Taxes that would need to be figured into the loan if applicable.
Tips to help you Sell your Living Quarter Horse Trailer Faster
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If you're serious about selling your Living Quarter Horse Trailer
First >>> Clean
Clean Clean Clean Clean Clean Clean your trailer, inside and out. Cleaning is the most important thing you can do. This might take a day, but it will be well worth your time. Just think about what you'd like to see if you were the buyer. You don't want to see someone else's trash. Pull out the mats in the Horse Compartment and wash it out and don't put the mats back in until the floor is Dry. Clean the Living Quarters as good as you can. Make it look as new as possible. And not just what you can see. Clean under the Sofa, inside the Cabinets, the shower glass, every place you can get to. If you don't clean your trailer, you are not serious about selling it very fast. Give someone a couple of hundred dollars to clean it, you will get it back a 100 times over. If you're using the trailer, clean it up after each trip.
Second >>> Photos
Take a good set of photos. Spend another hour taking photos, it's worth it.
( see in FAQ, "Photo Help" )
Third >>> Detail
Take pencil & paper and list everything you can about the details of your trailer.
(see in FAQ, "Posting a Trailer for the first time")
Fourth >>> Price
Price? Determining Market Value is the best way to arrive at a reasonable selling price. Market value is what the public is willing to pay, which is simply - supply and demand. Get Comparables. Trailers that are similar to yours in size and with options as close to yours as possible, and you can do that on EquineRV.com faster, easier and with much more detail than any other web site. You can also call a few dealers, and get their opinion. There will be a price range from low to high. If there are a lot of trailers like yours already on the market and your trailer is priced on the high side, expect that it will take longer to sell your trailer. If you believe your trailer warrants more money, then explain it to the public. Convenience plays an important roll as well. If there are 20 trailers for sale just like yours but they are all on the East Coast and you have the only one in Colorado, you can probably get more money for yours.
Keep in mind, Dealers do this for a living, they know how to present your trailer to the public, and most would be more than glad to Sell your Living Quarter Horse Trailer for you if you don't have the time to do it yourself.
Title Information, - Ask for it before you buy the trailer
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What you need to know about Titles on Used Trailers
This information is more for a heads up when purchasing a trailer from another individual. A reputable Dealer does Title work all the time, so normally there are no issues, and it's not unusual to receive your title a few days or weeks after you purchase from a Dealer.
On a Used Trailer, Is the Title Free & Clear and up to date? Is the Title in the name of the person you are buying it from?
When a person decides to sell their trailer, the trailer might still have a lien on it. You as the buyer are only trying to determine upfront what status the title is in. It's ok if the trailer still has a lien on it, because the seller will normally pay it off before you take possession of it. You're trying to avoid buying a trailer only to find out it still has a lien on it. Big Wreck!
The Lien Release from the lender may be a separate document from the Title, or there may be a section on the Title where the lender signs off and releases the lien.
Dealers can transfer titles to a new buyer without bringing the title up to date, which means the Title could still have the name of the person the Dealer got it from.
Does the trailer have a Title or an MCO? ( Manufactures Certificate of Origin ) If the trailer is new, normally it will have an MCO. If used, it will have a Title in the State it was registered in. Some states do not require that a trailer be titled, only require that the trailer be registered, and then some states don't even require the trailer be registered.
So if you are in Arizona and you are buying a trailer from someone in Oklahoma ....... Find out what the person in Oklahoma has for documents, and then visit with the MVD in Arizona to find out if Arizona requires anything else you may need to get an Arizona Title and Tag. This can save you a lot of headaches.
When you're discussing prices and documents with the Seller, do it through email. This gives you a written account of what you've talked about so there is no question what was discussed if an issue should come up.
8.) Photo Help
How do I make a bad photo look better?
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How to make a Dark Photo, lighter
The software on your computer that you use for editing your photos has somewhere in it an application for making a dark photo lighter or a light photo darker. You just have to find it. In the menu bar across the top or down the side, look for word "Image". When you click on it, it might open up a drop down list that might say "Corrections" or "Brightness". It may not be this exact wording but it will be something similar.
It's very important to have a photo look as good as possible. Take a few minutes to find out how to do it. It will make a big difference on how people view your trailer. A first impression is to important to waste.
Google up "Image Correction" and you'll find all kinds of help and free downloads if you can't figure it out.
How many pictures should I take to really show my trailer off?
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How many photos should I take?
Just imagine that you are the buyer, what do "you" want to see. Insure your success and take as many as needed. It takes approximately 20 to 25 photos to really represent your trailer, which might equal another 15 min of your time.
Your best Exterior photos will be taken at mid day when the sun is more directly overhead. Watch the shadows.
Your best Interior photos will be taken with the shades closed, lights on and use your flash. Back away and get as much in the picture as possible. You might know what you're subject is but you want the buyer to know it as well.
Depending on your trailer and floor plan, this is a good start:
** Exterior Photos, approx 10
* 1 Photo showing under the goose-neck, - Jack, propane bottles, etc.
* 2 Photos on the Head Side, - 1 showing the entire trailer, 1 closer of just the Horse Compartment. Go a step
further and take a couple with the Feed Doors down and the Manger Doors open.
* 2 Photos on the Butt Side - same as above
* 2 Photos - Rear End of Trailer, Doors closed and Doors Open
* 1 Photo of Rear Tack
* 2 Photos minimum inside horse compartment
** Interior Photos, approx 12 to 14
* 3 Photos standing in the bathroom door facing the front.- 1 shot up the center, 1 up the left side, 1 up the right side
* 3 Photos in the nose from the bed area - 1 shot down the center towards the bathroom, 1 down the left side and one down the right side
* 3 or 4 Photos of Closets with Doors open
* 3 or 4 in the Bathroom from all sides and angles
Resizing Photos / Images, How do I do that?
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How do I re-size a Photo / Image?
The software on your computer that you use for editing your photos has somewhere in it an application for resizing a photo or image. You just have to find it. In the menu bar across the top or down the side, look for the word "Image". When you click on it, it might open up a drop down list that might say "Re-size". It may not be this exact wording but it will be something similar.
People will want you to send them more photos of your trailer. Different cameras take photos with different files sizes. The larger the file the longer it takes to upload and email and the longer it takes the person on the other end to download them. If the photo is of a good size, you can send more pictures in one email faster. A photo or image less than 1000 pixels wide but more than 400 pixels wide is a good size and you can still see good detail. You re-size by the width and height of the photo in pixels, the File size is in Megabytes or Kilobytes. A Megabyte (MB) is larger than a Kilobyte (KB). The File size for all practical purposes will adjust automatically when you re-size the photo or image.
If you can't find out how to do this on your computer or don't understand it, Click on the links below to down load and learn how to use free software to re-size your pictures. It's fast and easy.
http://download.cnet.com/Free-Picture-Resize-Starter/3000-12511_4-102977...
http://www.avs4you.com/AVS-Photo-Editor.aspx
This is a great youtube on resizing images, simple and easy to understand.
Up Loading Your Trailer Photos
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More about the Single and Multi-Image Up-Loader, Resizing and etc.
** To use the Multi Image Up-Loader. Click the (+) icon to begin. This opens your browser so you can locate your pictures on your computer. Use your Ctrl or Shift Key to select up to 60+ images. When all the images are placed in que, the up-loading will begin when you click "Save" at the bottom of the page.
1.) For the Individual, when Up Loading has completed you will proceed to check out. After you complete the payment process, (still logged in) go to the Welcome area, click "My Listings", locate the trailer and click "Edit" to Edit your trailer Detail and/or to arrange the Photos.
2.) For the Dealer, when Up-Loading has completed, all the photos will be visible on the new listing. To change your trailer detail, add more photos or re-arrange photos click "Edit".
** Applies to Both the Dealer and the Individual
If you need to re-arrange the photos, place your mouse pointer on the + in the photo, and Drag and Drop the photo in the order you want. When you have re-arranged all the photos click "Save" at the bottom of the page.
A Single Image Up-Loader is also available when you "Edit" a listing if you find it more convenient.
To use the "Multi Image Up-Loader at "Edit". Click on the (+) icon to begin. When all photos are placed in que, click "Upload Images" to complete the uploading process. If you "Remove" any photos, you must click "Save" before you proceed with your next step.
Upload up to 60 photos with a file size of no more than 2.0 MB per photo. Some cameras take photos less than 2.0 MB and some more. Allowed extensions png, gif, jpg, jpeg.
Although photos are automatically resized for the website, it's to your benefit if you first resize your photos to 1,000 pixels wide or less..... *Uploading will be faster, and *If you need to send additional photos to a buyer, they email faster and he can download them faster.
Problems? contactus@equinerv.com
Pickup & Trailer Plug, Lights & Brakes
Step 1, Is the problem in the Truck or Trailer?
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Step 1, Is the problem in the Truck or Trailer?
1.) Is the problem in the truck or the trailer?
For Example - If the Right Turn Signal on your trailer does not work, use a 12 volt DC pin tester (looks like an Ice Pick with a wire coming out of the handle) - check Pin Location 3 in the Truck Socket (see 7 Way Light Socket, this section). If, when the Right Turn is Blinking on your truck, if this pin blinks on your tester, then all is good to this point and the problem is in the Trailer.
Note: Make sure your 12 volt Pin tester is Grounded good by first checking a Pin that you know is Hot, like the Clearance Lights or the Constant Hot Wire.
If your Pin Tester is not Blinking, check for a blown fuse on the truck. There are separate fuses in your truck that protect the circuits in the light socket, - so just because the signal is blinking on your truck does not mean the pin for the signal light in the socket will be blinking.
2.) If your tester is blinking, the problem could be, but does not have to be in the trailer.
One of the most common problems is a bad ground.
With you trailer unhooked from the truck, take a set of jumper cables - attach one end to the truck frame and one end to the trailer frame. If your lights work now, then the problem is a bad ground. It's not grounding through the plug. You now have to decide if it's on the truck side or the trailer side.
You can do this before or after the jumper cable test, and it's easier if you have some extra hands. Start with the truck socket, use the pin tester, touch one end to the ground pin #5 and the other end to a pin that you know is hot like the constant hot wire #2. If your tester lights up, the ground is OK. Test the Trailer plug the same way.
3.) If you think now that the problem is in the Trailer, and you know the ground is good, and you know which pin is not working, and you know what that pin goes to like the Clearance Lights, Left Turn or whichever, - it's possible you may have to follow that wire to the problem area.
Start with the trailer plug. Take the plug apart, look at all the connections to make sure all wires are secured properly. Notice what color wire you'll be tracing. You should know what pin is not working so it'll be easy to determine what color wire is attached to that particular pin.
4.) Are all the trailer lights not working or just one, like a turn signal?
A.) If it's just one light not working, start at that particular light. If it's a turn signal for example, inspect the wiring at the turn signal. Use your pin tester to see if the wire coming into the turn signal is hot. Check to see if the turn signal is grounded good. An eye connector over time might corrode at the point where it's grounded to the frame of the trailer and all you need to do is remove and screw it back in, this normally breaks any corrosion problem. If all the wiring is ok, then you probably just need to replace the turn signal.
B.) If both turn signals don't work, it's a wiring problem somewhere further away from the turn signal itself and it's probably not in the Trailer Plug.
C.) If all the Clearance Lights don't work, more than likely it's in the trailer plug.
Note: The Turn Signal and the Stop Lights use the same wire or circuit. So if your Turn Signals work you can bet your Brake Lights will work. So don't worry about checking Brake Lights.
Note: The bulb in the Turn Signal serves a dual purpose. There are two filaments in the bulb. One for the Clearance Lights and one for the Turn Signal. Most Turn Signals now days are sealed, which means you do not replace just the light bulb, you replace the complete fixture. Walmart........
When you plug your trailer in, does it blow the fues on your truck?
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When you plug your trailer in, does it blow fuses on your truck?
Does your trailer blow a fuse on your truck when you plug it in?
If that's the case, when you replace the blown fuse on your truck, note which circuit is affected, for example the clearance lights? Left Turn? or etc. Your Truck Manual will tell you this in the section about Fuses, - where the fuse is located and which circuit that fuse protects.
Then look at (7 Way Plug on Trailer) in this section to see which pin in the Trailer Plug carries the circuit.
Use a battery charger and hook the Ground end of the battery charger to the trailer, and touch the positive end of the battery charger to the pin on the Trailer Plug that you've determined is the problem circuit. Just touch it while you're watching the needle indicator on the battery charger. Immediately remove it if the needle pegs out with full deflection. You've just confirmed this is the problem circuit and a wire is going straight to ground causing the problem. If the needle on the battery charger does not peg out, you're on the wrong pin. Continue to check each pin until you find one that pegs out the needle.
NOTE: Before you start the procedure above, locate which pin on the trailer plug is ground and DO NOT touch that pin, because if it's properly grounded, the needle "will" peg out.
7 Way Light Socket on Truck
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Standard Wiring Diagram for 7 Way Socket on Truck
This photo is looking into the Factory Installed 7 Way Socket on your truck.
Some Sockets are marked on the Lid, which pin is what.
You see 7 metal Pins or Tabs.
Notice the position of the Guide Slot or Notch at the top, which is there so you can't plug it in the wrong way.
Location 1 - Running or Clearance Lights
Location 2 - Constant Hot Wire
Location 3 - Right Turn Signal
Location 4 - Brakes, - will only be hot when the Brakes are applied
Location 5 - Ground, - to frame on truck or through the factory harness
Location 6 - Left Turn Signal
Location 7 - from the factory, this Pin is Backup Lights. If Back Up Lights are not utilized on your trailer, - this Pin would normally be used as another Hot Wire for the Electric/Hydraulic Brakes or Air Ride on your trailer.
For EXAMPLE - If the Right Turn Signal on your trailer does not work, use a 12 volt DC pin tester (looks like an Ice Pick with a wire coming out of the handle) - check Pin Location 3 in the Truck Socket. If when the Right Turn is Blinking on your truck, if this pin blinks on your tester, then all is good to this point and the problem is in the Trailer.
Note: Make sure your 12 volt Pin tester is Grounded good by first checking a Pin that you know is Hot.
If your Pin Tester is not Blinking, check for a blown fuse on the truck. There are separate fuses that protect the socket circuits, - so just because the signal is blinking on your truck does not mean the trailer signal light will be blinking.
See Also in this section > My trailer is plugged in, but.........
7 Way Plug on Trailer.
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7 Way Plug on Trailer, Wiring Diagram
If you're looking at the 7 Way Trailer Plug with the notch at the top.
1) Clearance Lights
2) Constant Hot Wire
3) Right Turn and Stop
4) Brakes
5) Ground
6) Left Turn and Stop
7) Can be Back up Lights or if equipped with Air Ride or Hydraulic brakes it's used as a constant Hot wire.
Possible problem with Brakes or Lights.
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My trailer is plugged in, but my Brake Controller says it's not
Just because the Trailer Plug is hooked up to the Pickup Socket, doesn't mean the metal tabs inside the plug and socket are touching.
Photo A. - is the Trailer Plug. The raised notch is at the top and the Brake Pin is at the 7 o'clock position.
Photo B. - shows the tip of a knife entering between the plug and the Metal Tab.
Photo C. - shows the knife tip moving the Metal Tab towards the center of the plug, - just a little.
Photo D. - with the knife removed, the metal tab is in a different place. Compare to Photo A. This will allow the Metal Tab on the Plug to "mate" better with the Metal Tab in the socket on the pickup.
Every so often, you should spread all the Tabs in the Trailer Plug to make sure Lights and Brakes are fully connected when plugged in.
Axles, Brakes, Bearings & Seals
Part Numbers
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Listed below are part numbers for the most popular Bearings and Seals
Most of the time you can determine the axle size by the bearing numbers.
** 5,200# and 6,000# Dexter Axle, 6 Hole Hub
Depending on the age, some axles will require a Seal with an ID of either 2.25" or 2.125". The Drum will accept either seal.
Grease Seal, 3.376" OD x 2.25" ID - National part# # 452920 or 482920
Grease Seal, 3.376" OD x 2.125" ID - National part # 470972
Inner Bearing 25580, Outer Bearing 15123
Inner Race 25520, Outer Race 15245
** 7,000# Dexter Axles, 8 Hole Hub
Grease Seal, 3.376" OD x 2.25" ID - National part # 452920 or 482920
Grease Seal, 3.376" OD x 2.125" ID - National part # 440972
Seal, 3.376" OD x 2.125" ID - National part # 470972 - EZ Lube & Oil Bath
Unitized Oil Seal, 3.376" OD x 2.25" ID - National part # 3702119BG
Inner Bearing 25580, Outer Bearing 14125A
Inner Race 25520, Outer Race 14276
** 7,200# Dexter Axle, 8 Hole
Use same Bearings and Seals as 8,000# Dexter, below
** 8,000# Dexter Axles, 8 Hole
EZ Lube Grease Seal, Double Lip - National part # 452920 or 482920
Oil Seal - National 3702119BG
Inner Bearing 25580, Outer Bearing 02475
Inner Race 25520, Outer Race 02420
** 9,000# Dexter Axle, 8 Hole - Oil Bath Hub
Oil Seal, National part# 370150BGO
Inner Bearing 387A, Outer Bearing 25580
Inner Race 382A, Outer Race 25520
Note: The 9,000 Dexter Axle, could have a one piece Hub and Drum or a two piece Hub and Drum. If your replacing a Hub and Drum, make sure you go back with the correct one.
Please let us know if you would like other Axles, Seals and Bearings listed.
How Often should I Pack the Bearings?
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Servicing Bearings & Seals
Pack Bearings and Replace Seals every 12,000 miles or once a Year, as recommended by the Axle Manufacturer.
If your Hubs have a Dust Cap with a rubber plug in the center, that would indicate an E-Lube Hub. If you remove the rubber plug you'll see a grease zerk in the end of the spindle. Use a grease gun, and pump grease into the hub until you see grease being pushed through the bearing. Once you see grease, stop pumping, and it's not unusual to pump 20 to 30 times more or less. If there seems to be no end to your pumping and you still don't see grease being forced through the bearing, it's possible the seal has been pushed out of the rear of the hub and you're filling up the brake drum, which is not good. You'll have to pull the hub and check it out.
If you don't have E-Z Lube Hubs then you've probably got conventional Hubs which requires the bearings being packed by hand.
And it's possible you may have Nev-R-Lube Hubs which do not require grease. This is a sealed bearing unit that only requires inspection once a year or every 12,000 miles. You will not see any grease like you would with E-Z Lube Hubs or a conventional hub with greaseable bearings.
Which ever bearing type you have, it's a good idea through out the year and before any long trip to check the End Play. Jack the trailer up, grab the top of the tire and move it towards you, then away from you, back-n-forth. A very small amount of slack is acceptable but anything more might indicate a problem. It doesn't take long to do this and it might save a service call out on the road.
Dexter axles covers all these points very well. They have a service manual that can be downloaded off their website.
Brake Controllers, Factory Installed....
If you have a Factory installed Brake Controller and you intend on pulling a trailer with Electric over Hydraulic Brakes, there's a good chance you'll end up installing a second brake controller. More often than not the Factory installed Brake Controller is not compatable with the Brake System on the Trailer. A good service shop will be able to confirm if this could be a problem. The maker of the Trailer Brake System on the trailer will have a list of compatable brake controllers.
Electric Brakes, more about.......
Electric Brakes are more common than Hydraulic Brakes. They are less expensive in the beginning but can be more expensive in the long run. Electric Brakes use a Magnet that constantly wears against the Drum, so over time it wears out, usually before the shoes wear out.
Hydraulic Brakes have only shoes that wear. Hydraulic Brakes are more expensive in the beginning but usually require less maintenance in the long run. Brake Shoe Hold Down Bolts need particular attention when servicing Hydraulic Brakes.
Electric Brakes work great if equipped on the right size trailer, that's why you'll see Hydraulic Brakes on the larger trailers. I would say up to a 28' trailer or so you'll see Electric Brakes. Between 28' and 32' you'll see both, and over 32' you'll see more often than not, Hydraulic Brakes. If you go back 10 years or so you would probably see more Electric Brakes on all lengths.
It seems like with Electric Brakes stopping power diminishes over time because of the constant wear on the magnet. Hydraulic Brakes over the long run are more consistent.
Any Brake needs to be inspected at least once a year usually at the time the bearings need to be packed. That means remove the Hub & Drum and physically look at the brakes. Look at all the parts and pieces to see if something is missing which is not uncommon.
Magnets, springs and shoes need particular attention on Electric Brakes. Check that the shoe adjuster is there. This part can come loose, roll around for a time before it's slung out.
Electric over Hydraulic Brakes, more about.....
Electric over Hydraulic Brakes uses a control box that's usually mounted under the neck of the trailer around the Jack area. This Control Box works with the Electric Brake signal from your truck to activate the Hydraulic Brakes on the Trailer.
Most Factory Brake Controllers on Pickups are not compatible with the Hydraulic Brake unit on Trailers. An under dash mounted Brake Controller normally has to be installed on the pickup or truck. The maker of the Hydraulic Brake Unit will have a list of compatible Brake Controllers.
This is how to tell if everything is working properly. Have one person stand close to the Brake unit under the neck of the trailer and have one person step on the brakes on the truck. The person next to the brake unit should here a strong buzzing sound. Make sure the gain is turned up on your Brake Controller.
It's normally best to have someone that's qualified work on this type of brake system.
Electric Brakes are more common than Hydraulic Brakes. They are less expensive in the beginning but can be more expensive in the long run. Electric Brakes use a Magnet that constantly wears against the Drum, so over time it wears out, usually before the shoes wear out.
Hydraulic Brakes have only shoes that wear. Hydraulic Brakes are more expensive in the beginning but usually require less maintenance in the long run.
Electric Brakes work great if equipped on the right size trailer, that's why you'll see Hydraulic Brakes on the larger trailers. I would say up to a 28' trailer or so you'll see Electric Brakes. Between 28' and 32' you'll see both, and over 32' you'll see more often than not, Hydraulic Brakes. If you go back 10 years or so you would probably see more Electric Brakes on all lengths.
It seems like with Electric Brakes stopping power diminishes over time because of the constant wear on the magnet. Hydraulic Brakes over the long run are more consistent.
Any Brake needs to be inspected at least once a year usually at the time the bearings need to be packed. That means remove the Hub & Drum and physically look at the brakes. Look at all the parts and pieces to see if something is missing which is not uncommon. More often than not, you'll see missing parts on Electric Brakes over Hydraulic Brakes.
Magnets, springs and shoes need particular attention on Electric Brakes. Check that the shoe adjuster is there. This part can come loose, roll around for a time before it's slung out.
Brake Shoe Hold Down Bolts need attention on Hydraulic Brakes.
Electrical
Everything about 12 volt & 6 volt batteries.
Click the link below for a ton of information on 12 volt and 6 volt Batteries.
ATS Switch Defined
When talking about the ATS Switch, it doesn't make any difference if your Generator is an Onan or Generac or any other brand. And normally we're talking about On-Board Generators.
*** What is the ATS Switch??
The ATS switch is a magnetic switch that controls the direction of 120 Volt AC electricity that is entering the Living Quarters. Example: If you plug in the Power Cord, it automatically switches direction to allow electricity from the Power Cord, if you start the Generator, it automatically switches direction to allow electricity from the Generator.
Note:
Normally the ATS Switch cannot be damaged if you have the Power Cord plugged in "and" the Generator is running, because the Switch can only be in one position at any one time, not both at the same time.
*** Here's how to simply check the ATS Switch to see if it's working like it should.
With the Power Cord plugged in, and the Generator OFF, - do you have electricity?
With the Power Cord unplugged, and the Generator running, - do you have electricity?
If the answer is Yes in both cases, the problem is somewhere else.
*** Location of the ATS Switch
Normally the ATS Switch is attached to, or is very near the Converter - but it doesn't have to be.
Note:
It is possible that you will have an ATS switch even if you do not have a generator. But if everything has worked ok in the past, more than likely the problem is not in the ATS switch because it has no reason to switch back and forth if no generator is present. And if you are plugging the Power Cord in to a portable generator, the function of an ATS switch is not needed.
Converter Defined
Think of the Converter (Power Converter) as a Battery Charger. 120 volt AC comes into the Converter, is routed through Breakers (House type breakers) and is distributed to the 120 volt AC appliances like the Microwave, Frig, Air Conditioner and etc. 120 Volt AC is also converted or changed to 12 volt DC (ie, Battery Charger), routed through 12 volt DC fuses (auto type fuses) to all the appliance that operate on 12 volt DC, like the Lights, Ceiling Vent Fans, the 12 volt DC side of your Frig and etc. - Most RV's come standard with a Power Converter.
The Converter also charges the 12 Volt Batteries. When 120 volt is connected (Power Cord or Generator running) the Converter will "sense" the condition of the battery(ies) and bring it up to full charge. After the Battery(ies) are fully charged, the Charging side of the Converter will reduce to a Maintenance rate. The 6300, 7300 Series and the WF Converter monitors the Voltage at the batteries.
If the Power Cord ( Shore Cord ) is unplugged or the Generator is shut off, the batteries take over and keeps the 12 volts lights, appliances and etc running inside the Living Quarters.
The Converter will not produce 120 volt AC if the Shore Cord or Generator is off.
If an Inverter is installed in the Electrical System, 120 volt AC can be present ............
(see also, FAQ >> Electrical >> Inverter vs Converter)
Photo of WF Converter, very popular
This is a WF ( World Friendship ) Converter. The 12 volt Charging Unit on the Lower Side of the Converter. The 110 Volt Breakers are on the upper side. You can see how the 12 volt charging unit comes out making it fairly simple to replace. In the middle photo there are 2 stand alone 40 amp 12 volt fuses. If your batteries will not charge, check these fuses.
Photo, 6300 Series Converter
The 6300 Series Converter is an older Model. If the charging unit goes out, normally they will give you a 7300 Series for upgrade installation.
There is not a Main 12 volt Fuse to protect the unit as is on a 7300 Series or the newer WF Converter. Normally a Main Fuse will be found at the Battery location where it's easy to get to.
See the 110 volt Breakers on the Left, and the 12 volt auto type fuses on the Right.
If you need to replace a 12 volt fuse, do not use a Fuse Larger than 20 amp.
Photo, 7300 Series Converter
** Photo A is the 7300 Series Parallax Converter
** Photo B is the Upper Door Down
** Photo C - See Pointer on the 12 volt Charging Unit of the Converter. This charging unit can be replaced.
** Photo D - See Pointer on Main 30 amp 12 volt Fuses. These 12 volt Fuses will Blow if you happen to hook the wires up on the Battery wrong, or if Reverse Polarity was an issue. So if the battery or batteries will not charge up, check these two fuses at this location.
** Photo E - See Pointer on the standard 12 volt auto type fuses. These Fuses are tied to everything 12 volt inside the Living Quarters. If lights don't work, check for a Blown Fuse. Some converters have the Fuses marked as to what would apply for that particular fuse. Replace with the correct size fuse. Most Converters say do not use a fuse larger than 20 amp at this location.
Photo, Battery Charger made simple
If there's no Converter or Charging system on the trailer, this is a very simple way to keep a Battery Charged, as long as 12O volt is available on the Trailer. Most Auto Parts stores offer chargers like this.
Where can I buy a replacement Charging Unit for my Converter?
Go to the link below for a Charging Unit for a WFCO ( World Friendship ) Converter.
You need to know the Model number which is on the face of the Converter.
Why do I hear my Converter humming?
You hear the cooling fan running. It won't run all the time, only when needed.
120 Volt AC (House)
120 Volt AC for example: Your house operates on a 120 volt electrical system for the most part. Most of your appliances, lights, and wall plugs are 120 Volt AC.
12 Volt DC (Auto)
12 Volt for example: Your pickup has 12 Volt Batteries and therefor runs on a 12 Volt DC Electrical System.
Everything you ever wanted to know about 12 volt and 6 volt.
120 Volt AC Distribution Panel
** Photo A shows a Distribution Panel, which is similar but not exactly like a Converter. The Distribution Panel has the 120 Volt AC Breakers and 12 Volt DC Fuses that protect all the Lights and Appliances in the Living Quarters, but the 12 Volt DC Charger is not part of this unit as it is with the Converter. (see also, Converters)
** Photo B shows the Stand Alone 12 Volt DC Charger, which in this case is placed in the same compartment with the Water Tank and Pump.
If there is limited room, - a Distribution Panel can be located one place, and the Charging Unit somewhere else.
In this example, IOTA out of Tucson, AZ offers both these units.
Inverters vs Converters, Tell me more
Simply said, a Converter changes 120 Volt AC to 12 Volt DC, - and an Inverter does just the opposite, it changes 12 Volt DC to 120 Volts AC.
Think of the Converter (Power Converter) as a Battery Charger. 120 volt AC comes into the Converter, is routed through Breakers (House type breakers) and is distributed to the 120 volt AC appliances like the Microwave, Frig, Air Conditioner and etc. 120 Volt AC is also converted or changed to 12 volt DC (ie, Battery Charger), routed through 12 volt DC fuses (auto type fuses) to all the appliance that operate on 12 volt DC, like the Lights, Ceiling Vent Fans, the 12 volt DC side of your Frig and etc. - Most RV's come standard with a Power Converter.
A Power Inverter might be used to give you 120 Volt AC where you would normally not have it available. For example, - you bought a Trailer with no generator and you're 200 miles from the closest AC receptacle. You can not watch TV unless the TV is 12 volt DC, you cannot use a hair dryer unless you've got a 12 volt DC hair dryer, you definitely can not run the Air Conditioner. Maybe you have a Generator but it's out of gas.
Inverters vary in capacity. Some of them are small enough to plug into your cigarette lighter or clipped to the battery post, and can be used to run a Lap Top or TV depending on the load. How large an Inverter you need depends on how heavy the load, or wattage draw a particular appliance has and how many you want to run at the same time. There are Modified Sine Wave Inverters (Square Wave Inverters) and there are Pure Sine Wave Inverters (True Sine Wave Inverters) being the more expensive type because they provide electricity with less distortion. Which means it's closer to the same type of electricity in you house.
It depends again on what you want to power up and how pure the electricity needs to be.
Camper World, RV Dealers and of coarse the Internet can point you in the right directions.
Want to know more? go here >>>> http://www.roadtripamerica.com/dashboarding/power-inverters.htm
Breakers, 120 volt AC
Normally, the 120 Volt AC Breakers are in the Converter, Distribution Panel or if it's a much simpler Living Quarters, a Breaker Box. (see also, Converters)
Photo, 30 amp Adapter Plug
Photo A. is the 30 amp plug on your trailer. If 30 amp service is available, this is the end you'll want to use, especially to run your Roof Air, as well as everything else. Other wise you need a Generator.
Photo B. both photos just show two different styles of the Adapter Plug.
Photo C. shows the opposite end of the Adapter Plug
Photo D. shows the Adapter Plug on the Power Cord. This allows you to plug into a Standard 120 Volt AC Receptacle and run most everything that would apply except the Roof Air. Normally 12O volt receptacles are 15 to 20 amp, and the Roof Air requires 30 amp.
Electrical Troubleshooting
"No"Electricity in your Living Quarters?
1. If your Power Cord is plugged in, check the Breakers at the source. For example, if you're at the RV Park at the Fair Grounds in Okla City and you plugged in to one of their receptacles, maybe the breaker for their receptacle is tripped and needs to be re-set.
2. If your Generator is running and you have no electricity inside the Living Quarters, check the Breaker at the Generator. ( in FAQ, see Onan Troubleshooting >> My Generator is running but I have no 120 volt ........)
3. If your Generator is running and the Breaker on your Generator has not tripped, - the ATS (automatic transfer switch) may be faulty.
*** What is the ATS Switch??
The ATS switch is a magnetic switch that controls the direction of 120 Volt AC electricity that is entering the Living Quarters. Example: If you plug in the Power Cord, it automatically switches direction to allow electricity from the Power Cord, if you start the Generator, it automatically switches direction to allow electricity from the Generator.
Note:
Normally the ATS Switch can not be damaged if you have the Power Cord plugged in "and" the Generator is running, because the Switch can only be in one position at any one time, not both at the same time.
*** Here's how to simply check the ATS Switch to see if it's working like it should.
With the Power Cord plugged in, and the Generator OFF, - do you have electricity?
With the Power Cord unplugged, and the Generator running, - do you have electricity?
If the answer is Yes in both cases, the problem is somewhere else.
*** Location of the ATS Switch
Normally the ATS Switch is attached to, or is very near the Converter - but it doesn't have to be.
Note:
It is possible that you will have an ATS switch even if you do not have a generator. But if everything has worked ok in the past, more than likely the problem is not in the ATS switch because it has no reason to switch back and forth if no generator is present. And if you are plugging the Power Cord in to a portable generator, the function of an ATS switch is not needed.
How do I know if my batteries are good?
If you own an RV you should own a battery tester. It will pay for itself many times over. Remember, a parts store is in the business of selling batteries, so check it yourself and more often than not, it will save you a trip to town.
Auto Zone has this Tester for about $40.00. Works on 6 volt and 12 volt batteries.
Part # CP7612
I think my Generator is to Hot, what about that?
Could be.
1. If it's mounted in a Manger, open the Manger Door to give it more fresh air. Check to make sure nothing is blocking the way the generator gets air. For Example, the Manger door is vented but someone has put something over the door blocking the Vents.
Note:
Do not remove the Generator Panel Door thinking that will help. The Panel Door has to be in place so the generator will cool properly.
2. You might try parking in the shade, or move the trailer and put the sun on the opposite of the Generator.
3. With an Onan MicroQuite, the Air is Exhausted out the same place the exhaust pipe leaves the generator. Check that nothing is blocking this flow of air.
4. Does it run better when the sun goes down. That might tell you something.
DO NOT THROW WATER ON THE GENERATOR. I know what you're thinking, but it's probably crossed the minds of some.
Why won't my 12 volt batteries hold a Charge?
1. If you have more than one battery, it is possible that one of the batteries is bad, which will cause all batteries not to hold a charge for any length of time. ( see how to check my batteries )
2. It could be that your batteries need water. If they are Maintenance Free (which means they don't require water) test them to see if they are any good.
3. See also, (Converters) - if the Converter is not working properly, the batteries will not charge.
4. See also, (Photos, Converters) - check the 12 volt fuse. If it's blown the batteries will not charge.
How do I Troubleshoot the Converter?
Read first "Converter Defined"
A. More often than not, the charging side of the Converter quits working, therefor the batteries will not charge up. Here's how to check it out.
You want the Generator running or the Power Cord ( shore cord ) plugged in, and the Battery Switch in the 'OFF' position. Now, if the Batteries do not have a Main Switch that turns them OFF and ON, disconnect the Negative Battery Cable from the Battery or Batteries. Then check, if the Lights in side the Living Quarters, if they do not work, then the Charging Side of the Converter is no good and needs to be replaced.
B. There is also a 12 volt 30 or 40 amp fuse in the Converter. Normally located next to but not inline with the other 12 volt fuses. (see Photos, 7300 Series Converter ) If your converter is not just like this, you should be able to locate the 2 stand alone Fuses. If one of these fuses is blown, the Charging Unit will not charge the Batteries. They are there to protect the charger in case someone replaces a battery and hooks up the wires wrong.
C. Some Converters and Chargers are built into one housing. The 12 volt charger only needs to be replaced. With other Converters, the charging part is Stand Alone. So you'll have the Converter in one place and the Charger in another place. (see, Photos of Converters)
Why are my Interior lights pulsating from dim to bright?
Why are my Interior Lights pulsating from dim to bright
If the Interior Lights ( 12 volt auto ) in your Living Quarters are pulsating from dim to bright, the most likely cause, is the Charging Unit in the Converter is going out. The Charging Unit is like a Battery Charger that converts 110 volt to 12 volt which in turn charges your batteries and makes all the 12 volt appliances and lights operate in the Living Quarters. It is possible you will notice this problem more with the Generator running as opposed to just being plugged in to 110 volt with the Power Cord. (See also Microwave Troubleshooting)
Generators
Onan Owners, READ THIS FIRST, VERY IMPORTANT
If your Generator has surging or hunting problems that can be traced to the fuel system, the root cause is probably not a warrantable failure. Component failures due to Fuel Varnishing are not covered under warranty.
If the Generator is not operated often enough to run a number of gallons of gas through it every month, it will start to develop Fuel Varnish. Emptying the tank will not prevent varnishing, because a small amount of fuel always remains in the gen-set fuel system, ie the carburetor. A slight decrease in efficiency can have a huge impact on performance. The generator may start but sometimes will surge or hunt at various loads. It will surge or oscillate between acceleration or deceleration of the engine speed, and never settle on a certain operating speed. Speed affects the output voltage so any surging greatly hampers the gen-set from providing stable electricity.
See your operator's Manual under the section "Generator Set Exercise", it states the set should be run with at least a 50% load (AC ON) for two hours every four weeks.
Onan also recommends the use of a Fuel Stabilizer (see Fuel Stabilizer)
Hour Meter
The Hour Meter is normally located with the Remote Start Switch inside the living quarters. The Hour Meter displays the number of hours the Generator has run. The Hour Meter can not be re-set. If you replace your Generator, you should replace the Hour Meter so it will register the correct number of hours the Generator has run. The Hour Meter is also used to determine when maintenance should be done, for example: when to change the oil.
Onan Service Center, Locate
http://www.cumminsonan.com/locator
use your Back Button to return to EquineRV.com
Fuel Stabilizer, more about
Fuel varnishing is a gummy residue that clogs the generator carburetor and fuel pump. It's caused by the deterioration of fuel that sits in the engine too long. Depending on fuel quality and storage conditions, gasoline can deteriorate in as little as 30 days. As long as you refuel frequently with fresh gasoline, and exercise the unit regularly, fuel varnishing is less likely to occur. But if you leave the same gasoline in the tank for several months, you're very likely to have problems.
The only way to prevent fuel varnishing is to treat the contents of the tank supplying fuel to the generator with a fuel preservative, and to exercise the set. Onan has developed a fuel preservative and stabilizer, OnaFresh (TM). Onan recommends adding this preservative to the fuel, especially on infrequently used Generators.
Once varnishing has occurred, adding a preservative will not correct the problem.
Onan offers a "Premium Fuel System Cleaner" for use with its generators.
see also, FAQ >> Generators >> READ THIS FIRST, VERY IMPORTANT
"Sea Foam" in my opinion, works excellent and can be purchased at you local parts store , - and I've also seen it at Walmart.
LP vs Gas vs Diesel
Well, you had to ask
Fuel, recommended
87 Octane, Minimum.
Onan says your gas generator will use 1/2 gallon of gas per hour of operation. And that would mean more or less in a Load or No Load status.
It was said, that if you use 89 Octane you Generator would be 33% more efficient. Which means instead of using 1/2 gal per hour, it would use 1/3 gal per hour, which is less than 1/2 gallon.
Fuel Pump, Secondary locations
This is one example of a secondary Fuel Pump location for a Roof Mounted Gas Generator. This Fuel Pump in located in the Rear Tack. Another popular location is under the trailer, behind the axles between the I-Beams or cross members. There's normally a plate you have to remove to access the pump.
Fuel Pump, Primary Location
The Primary Location for the Fuel Pump
The primary fuel pump is located in the Generator Compartment. Just follow the fuel line and it should lead you to it. The fuel pump can be replaced without pulling the Generator out of it's compartment. The Solenoid and the Power Board have to be removed to get to the fuel pump. It's not very difficult.
_________________________________________________________________________
Onan Generator, How do I Prime it?
The Prime Button is the same Button you use to Start/Stop the Generator. Pushing down on "Stop" will start the Priming of the Generator. Sometimes it's noted on the Button as 'Stop/Prime. As seen in these photos, it does not say Stop/Prime, only Stop. But the function is still there.
** Photo A shows the status of the Switch when the Generator is not running.
** Photo B. When you push down on the Stop Side of the Switch, the small Light comes on showing you that Priming has begun. Hold it down for the count of 10 to 30 seconds.
** Photo C. Push the Start side of the Switch down for a count of about 10. If it does not start, prime it again. It may take 2 or 3 times if it hasn't been started that day or if it's cold outside.
Note: If the Generator does not start, see Generator > Troubleshooting > Onan Gas Generator Won't Start
** Photo D, Generator is running and the Light is on. If the Generator stops the light will go out.
Note: See also the Hour Meter. This tells you how many Hours the generator has run, - and it's also a good indication of when the next Oil Change is due. Change the oil after the first 25 hours and every 175 hrs thereafter.
Onan Generator Maintenance
On a new Generator change the Oil after the first 20 hours. Reference the Hour Meter at the Start/Stop Switch.
Change the Oil and Air Filter every 150 hrs thereafter. The MicroQuite holds 1.6 qts of Oil. The Oil Drain is in the middle, on the bottom side. Above freezing, 30 weight oil is recommended. There is not an Oil Filter on the MicroQuite.
Spark arrester or muffler. Clean every 50 hours. Remove 2 plugs, start engine and run for 5 min. and any debris will be blown out. Replace the plugs once it's cooled down.
Replace the Spark Plug, Fuel Filter every 450 hrs. In an emergency, use a dime to check the spark plug gap.
Adjust Valve Lash and Clean or Replace Cylinder Head every 450 hrs, by an Onan service center.
The Onan 4000 MicroQuite has no Oil Filter. It uses an 1/8 of an ounce of oil per hour as part of the cooling process, so check the oil at least every 8 hours.
There is an altitude adjustment on the Carburetor. Power from the Generator decreases as altitude increases. It maybe necessary to run fewer appliances (at the same time) at higher altitudes.
There is NOT a Low Oil Shut off or a High Temp. Shut Off, unless you know for a fact these features are on your unit.
If you notice oil in the air cleaner (breather) housing, this might be caused from Blow By from the OHV that feeds back to the Air Cleaner through a hose. You can pull the OHV cover that has about 7 screws in it and replace the breather valve and gasket. Onan Reed Valve # 123-1920 - Gasket # 110-3860
Photo, Onan MicroQuite Open Compartment
Popular Onan MicroQuite 4000 watt or 4K Generator
Photo, Onan 4K ID Tag Location
Onan 4,000 watt or 4K, Microquite Spec K, ID Tag
Starting my Onan, - What is the correct procedure?
Always, the Generator should be first on and last off.
You can find the starting procedure in the Onan Operator's Manual, or if you don't have it do the following.
1. The Generator will start easier if Large Electrical Drawing appliances are off like the Air Conditioner, Microwave, Electric Skillets, Electric Hot Water Heaters, Curling Irons and Hair Blowers.
2. If you're starting the Generator for the first time of a day, at the Start Button, push the Prime Button down for the count of about 10, and then push START for about the count of 10.
3. If it doesn't start, hold the Prime down for about 30 seconds, then the Start for the count of 10.
4. You may have to prime again, but the Generator will usually start after two or three priming cycles. The indicator light will blink while trying to start and once running the indicator light will glow constant. ( see, Generators / Priming )
5. If you hold the Start button down for a long period of time, the starter will get hot, quit cranking and the Status Indicator Light will blink a Fault Code 4. You then have to wait for the starter to cool down before trying to start it again. Onan says the Generator will shut down after 15 or 20 seconds of cranking if it doesn't start. I think it is best not to get the starter hot to the point where it quits trying to start. ( see also, Generators / Fault Codes )
6. Once the Generator is running, wait till you're sure 110 volt is present before turning on any heavy load appliances like the Air Conditioner or the Microwave. A good indication 110 volts is present, - the Microwave Light will come on.
Note:
You may notice that once the generator is running you don't have 120 Volt AC electricity immediately. Depending on what kind of ATS switch there is, it may take 60 seconds or so for the switch to connect.
(see also, FAQ > Electrical > ATS Switch Defined )
7. Make sure your Carbon Monoxide Detector is working properly inside the Living Quarters. A Carbon Monoxide Detector does have an Expiration Date, so periodically you will need to install a new one. The Date is usually printed on the Detector.
8. Turn off all heavy load appliances ( A/C and Microwave ) and let the Generator run for a couple of minutes to cool down before shutting down the Generator. This reduces back firing and run-on which increase the life of the Generator.
9. If the Generator is running and you have no 110 volt AC present, check the Breaker at the Generator.
Note: In a lot of cases, the 4,000 watt gas or 3600 watt propane Onan will not run the Air Conditioner and Microwave at the same time. Since the Microwave is only needed for a few minutes, turn the AC off while you're using the Microwave, then turn it back on.
Photos, inside Onan Generator
Photo A shown with the Door off. You don't want to run the generator for very long with the compartment door removed. It causes improper air flow which effects cooling.
Photo B is where you check the Oil. This unit uses approx. an 1/8 of an ounce of Oil per hour as part of the cooling process. Check Oil regularly.
Photo C is the connection for the Remote Switch located in the Living Quarters if so equipped. This connection services the Start/Stop functions as well as the Hour Meter.
Photo D is the Spark Plug.
Photo E is the Power Board or Control Board. This is the Computer / Brains of the Generator. If this part fails, the Generator will not run.
Part Numbers, Onan
Unless noted, these parts are for the Popular Onan MicroQuite KY, Spec J & after
Operators Manual - for the 4K Onan Gas, 3600 Watt LP - Spec KY - part # 981-0147
Ignition Coil - 4K Onan MircoQuite - Onan # part # 0166-0866
Spark Plug - 4K Onan MicroQuite - Champion RN14YC, Onan # 167-0275
Spark Plug - 2.8 K Onan Microlite - Champion RS17YX
Carburetor, Gas - MicroQuite - from Camping World - SKU # 25009
Carburetor, Gas - MicroQuite - Onan # 0146-0785
Air Filter - MicroQuite - Onan # 140-3280
Fuel Filter, Secondary - NAPA # 3031 > CarQuest # 86031
(this is just a regular fuel filter between the fuel tank & the generator)
Breaker Switch at Generator, MicroQuite - Onan # 0320-1323
Fuel Filter on Engine at Pump, MicroQuite - Onan # 149-2457
Fuel Pump at Engine, MicroQuite (also used for the Secondary Lift Pump) - Onan # A029F889 or AO29F887
( this is the newest Onan Pump and replaces all older pumps, Example Onan # 0149-2311-01 or 02)
Main Power Computor Board - Onan # 327-1413 ( replaces 300-5046 )
( see photo - FAQ > Generators > Photos, Onan Troubleshooting > 4000 KY Gas............ )
Generac Generator Maintenance
On a New Guardian Generator, change the Engine Oil and Oil Filter after the first 25 hrs.
Every 100 hrs thereafter, change the Engine Oil, Oil Filter, Air Filter, Fuel Filter and clean or replace the spark plug.
Oil Capacity is .84 US Quarts. Summer months use SAE 30 or SAE 10W-30. Winter months use SAE 5W-30.
DO NOT USE SAE 10W-40
Run the Generator 30 minutes under load (with AC on) twice a month.
Generac Service Center, Locate
http://www.generac.com/Service/DealerLocator/
use your Back Button to return to EquineRV.com
Starting my Generac, What is the correct procedure?
1. Large Electrical Loads like the Roof Air, Microwave, Air Dryers and such should be OFF before starting the generator. You're not going to tear anything up, it's just easier on the system and could prevent a breaker from tripping.
2. If the Generator is cold you'll need to Prime if first. The Prime button is on the Remote Start Switch inside the LQ and/or it's on the Generator. Hold Prime down for 10 to 15 seconds then Press Start. If it doesn't start after 10 to 15 seconds, Prime again.
3. Once the Generator Starts, let it run for a couple of minutes to let it warm up before you turn on a heavy load like the Roof Air.
Note:
You may notice that once the generator is running you don't have 120 Volt AC electricity immediately. Depending on what kind of ATS switch there is, it may take 60 seconds or so for the switch to connect.
( see also, FAQ > Electrical > ATS Switch Defined )
4. Before you turn off the Generator, turn off any heavy load appliances like the Roof Air and let the Generator run for a couple of minutes to cool down.
I'll see if I can find the answer
Generac Troubleshooting
In the back of the Guardian Owner's Manual there is a troubleshooting guide.
1. The Guardian has a Low Oil Shut Off. Check the Oil. It will not start until the safe oil level is obtained.
2. There is also a High Temperature Shut Off. You might try giving it more fresh air or park in the shade. Maybe the Sun needs to be on one side of the trailer which puts the Generator on the shady side. Do not remove the generator cover and let it run for a long period of time, this will cause improper cooling.
If it's mounted in a Manger, open the Manger Door to give it more fresh air. Check to make sure nothing is blocking the way the generator gets air. For Example, the Manger door is vented but someone has put something over the door blocking the Vents.
You might try to start it first thing of a morning (coolest part of the day) to see if heat is the problem.
3. If it won't start, won't even turn over; Check the Battery and/or the Battery connection. Just because the cable is on the battery post does not mean it's making a good connection. Check for a blown fuse. At the Starting Panel on the Generator there is a 7.5 amp fuse.
4. If it cranks but won't start:
* Clogged up Fuel Filter
* Faulty Fuel Pump
5. Starts hard and runs ruff. Check the Air Cleaner and/or Spark Plug
6. Engine starts but shuts off when the start button is released.
* Low engine oil
* Defective Oil Pressure Switch
* Defective High Temp Switch
* Defective engine control board
* Overheated Engine
7. If the generator is running and you have no electricity in the LQ, check the breaker at the Generator.
Part Numbers, Generac
go here to locate an Owners Manual http://www.generac.com/Service/ManualSearch/
** Quitepact 40G, Model 4700 Gas & 4701 LP
* 0D9723 - Air Filter
* 0D4511 - Pre Cleaner
* 070185B - Oil Filter (Fram Autolite 65)
* 087769 - Fuel Filter - Gas Only
* 0E7585 - Spark Plug (Champion RC14YC) (AC R45S) (Gap .030 inch)
* 086729 - Starter Solenoid/Relay
* 081675 - Ignition Coil
* 075281 - High Temp. Switch
* 087798 - Start/Stop Switch
* 092113 - Prime Switch
* 0D7513 - Fuel Pump - Gas Only
* 0D8332 - Carburetor - Gas
* 0F5759 - Carburetor - LP
** Primepack 50, Model 2010 Gas & 4164 LP
* 07311 - Air Filter
* 081646 - Pre Cleaner
* 070185B - Oil Filter
* 087769 - Gas Only
* 0E7585 - Spark Plug
* 0D1227 - Starter Solenoid/Relay
* 092572 - Ignition Coil
* 075281 - High Temp. Switch
* 087798 - Start/Stop Switch
* 092113 - Prime Switch
* 090475 - Fuel Pump
* 0A6562 - Carburetor - Gas
* 0A7336A - Carburetor - LP
Onan Generator Troubleshooting
Could it be a Carburetor Problem?
Photo A.) Pencil shows the area of the housing that you need to check for Side Slack. Side Slack is caused by the shaft that enters the Carburetor at this point. It's the shaft that's wallered out the hole where it enters the Carburetor. There can be a small amount of play but you'll know it if there's to much. A broken or missing return spring can cause this.
Photo B.) A clear Photo of the correct position of all the linkage. The linkage has to be removed when the Carburetor is replaced. Sometimes the linkage may not get put back in the same position it was in before it was removed.
Photo C.) Pencil is pointing to the Fuel Line entering the Carburetor from the Pump. Here you see a standard Hose Clamp on the Fuel Line. This is an indication the Carburetor has been replaced. The Band Clamp from the factory has to be cut off when the carburetor is removed, you can't take the Factory clamp off with a wrench. The Factory Band Clamp is replaced with a Standard Hose Clamp that will accept a screw diver or nut driver.
My Generator is running but I have no electricity in my Living Quarters
*** First, - check to see if the Breaker is ON or OFF. The Breaker is located on the Generator. If you have the popular Onan 4000 gas or 3600 LP Generator, if the Breaker Switch is towards you, it is in the ON position.
You can't see the Switch in this photo, but the Pencil indicates the approximate location.
This photo also shows the Start Switch on the Generator.
*** Second - See also, - Electrical >> ATS Switch Defined
My Onan Gas Generator runs "Ruff" or it runs for a bit then quits.
If your Gas Onan runs "Ruff" and / or it runs for 30 min or 2 hrs and then shuts down.
First, check to see which Fault Code is displayed, - see in this section >Onan Fault Codes<
1. At the time it shuts down, check to see if there's a spark present at the spark plug. It could be that the Ignition Coil is going out, or the Spark Plug Wire has a bad spot in it. If you determine there is no spark, or sometimes a spark, the Generator has to be pulled to get to the Coil.
2. The other possibility is worn out linkage at the carburetor. There are two Butterfly's in the Carburetor. Check the top butterfly linkage and make sure the post coming up from the butterfly does not have a lot of side slack in the hole going into the carb, it could be wallered out by sloppy linkage. This would require a new Carburetor. $200 to $300 depending on who fixes it. ( see Photos>Troubleshooting>Onan Carburetor )
3. If your Gas Generator runs, but runs very ruff. More often than not, it needs a new carburetor. It has sat for a long period of time without running and varnish has started to build up in the carburetor. There's no cleaning it. You could try running a couple of gallons of carb cleaner through it, but you'll end up replacing the carb. Onan recommends running a Generator at least 2 hrs a month. The periodic use of a Fuel Stabilizer which keeps the fuel fresh, is recommended by Onan
4. If your Generator is mounted on top of the trailer, there should be 2 fuel pumps. The 4000 Onan has one Fuel Pump at the Generator and who ever installed it should have added a second pump somewhere below the top of the trailer. It needs that second pump to get the fuel up. Put your hand on the 2nd pump while priming it, or if the generator is running - you should feel a slight vibration from the pump if it's working. If not, check to see if 12 volt is present at the pump. One wire is ground and the other is hot, 12 volt DC. ( see, Generators > Fuel Pump Locations )
5. If you hear a sharp clicking from the pump, or if it clicks sometimes and then not, - it could be the pump is beginning to fail. Every time you hear the clicking, fuel is not passing through the pump. That's why when you start to prime it, you may hear it clicking and then the clicking stops. That's because fuel is finally passing through the pump and you shouldn't hear any more clicking if everything is operating correctly.
6. If your Generator's been running ok and it quits and it won't even try to start again, the Battery may be Dead. Charge the Battery and try to start it. If it starts, it will run until it's drained the Battery and then it will shut down again. The problem is the Battery is not recharging while the Generator is running. The Generator needs 12 volt to run. It does not recharge it self and it won't keep running if you disconnect the battery.
Note: The are a couple of ways to keep the battery that starts the generator recharged.
One way is from the Converter inside the Living Quarters. The Converter acts like a Battery Charger. 120 volts AC comes from the Generator to the Converter, then 12 volt DC goes from the Converter to the 12 Volt DC Battery.
Another way is from a regular Battery Charger. The Battery Charger might be plugged in to a 120 volt AC receptacle on the trailer and hooked to the Battery. While the Generator is running the Battery is Charging.
My Onan Gas Generator won't start
If your Onan Gas Generator will not start. ( see also, Generator / Fault Codes )
1.) First, is it getting gas? Remove the rubber fuel line hose at the carburetor and try to start it. Fuel should be spurting out of the hose.
2.) If you're not getting fuel. It may be a bad fuel pump which is located in the Generator Compartment. If you hear a sharp clicking instead of a dull thuding sound when you are priming the generator, it may have a bad fuel pump. It is natural to hear a sharp clicking when you first start to prime the generator, but if everything is working correctly the sharp clicking turns to a dull thuding sound when fuel reaches the pump.
3.) Is there a spark to the plug?
4.) If your generator has sat idle for several months without running, and it turns over but won't start, the gas could have varnished up inside the Carburetor. There is usually No Cleaning the Carburetor, it has to be replaced. Periodic use of a Fuel Stabilizer that keeps the Fuel Fresh is recommended by Onan.
5.) Does it start at the Generator but not from the Living Quarters if so equipped with an additional start button? Then the problem is between the Generator and the additional start button inside the LQ.
6.) If your Generator's been running ok and it quits and it won't even try to start again, the Battery might be Dead. Check the Water and then Charge the Battery. If it starts, and if the battery is no good, it will run till it's drained the Battery and then it will shut down again. The problem is the Battery is not recharging while the Generator is running. The Generator needs 12 volt DC to run. It does not recharge it self and it won't keep running if you disconnect the battery. ( see also, Electrical > Converter > How do I troubleshoot the Converter )
7.) It could be that the Positive and Negative Cable on the Battery needs to be cleaned to make a better connection. Simple, might try this first. Just because the cable is on the battery post does not mean it's making a good connection.
This is how the Battery that starts the Generator charges:
The Converter (if equipped) inside the Living Quarters acts like a Battery Charger. 120 volt AC comes from the Generator to the Converter, then 12 volt DC goes from the Converter to the Battery that starts the Generator.
( see, Electrical > Converter > How do I troubleshoot the Converter )
8.) If your Generator's been running fine, and if the next time you try to start it, you just hear a clicking sound. Remove the Negative Battery Cable from the Battery that starts the Generator, and you can do this at the Generator also. With the Panel Door off the Generator, use your left hand and reach through the Generator on the Left Hand Side until you find the Fly Wheel. Spin the Fly Wheel to make sure it's Free. Then hook up the battery cables and try starting again. Sometimes when a Generator shuts down, it stops at an exact point at what I'd call Top Dead Center. You just have to move it slightly off top dead center and then it's ok.
Onan Fault Codes
The Start / Stop / Prime Button will Blink out a Fault Code if the Generator quits running or won't start for whatever reason. The Fault Codes and what they mean are Listed in the Owners Manual.
This is how you read a Fault Code.
1. If you'll look at the Start/Stop Button when the Generator stops running, it will be blinking, there will be a pause and then it will blink the same number of blinks again. Count the Blinks. 3 Blinks indicates a Service Fault. Press Stop and it will start blinking again. What you're looking for is a two digit code. 3 Blinks was the 1st Level of the code, pressing Stop will give you the full code. Example, when you press stop, you'll see, blink, blink, blink - pause - blink, blink, blink, blink, blink, blink - pause, and the blinking repeats it's self. So what code did it blink out? Right 36.
The first set of Blinks that you see when the Generator stops "is" the first Level of the Code, or in the upper example 3. Don't misread the first level blinking as being a 33 or 44. For this reason there is not a Fault Code 33 or 44.
First Level Fault Codes are 3 and 4.
Fault Code 3 is a Service fault. From here you'll look for the second digit code.
Fault Code 4, is caused by Over-cranking.
Now, if you've been gone and when you get back and the generator has stopped running, the Start/Stop Button will not be blinking. It quits blinking after 5 min. To get the Fault Code, Press Stop 3 times within 5 seconds and the blinking will start. You just need to count the First and Second Level Blinks. Example, blink, blink, blink - pause - blink, blink, blink, blink, blink, blink - pause - and it repeats. If you hit stop again, the blinking will Stop.
What could be the problem if my Gas Generator is Surging?
Your generator should run at a level and constant RPM. If it revs up for a moment and then ruffly idles down and then revs up again and so on, it's surging or what we might call hunting. If it's surging, the electricity that it produces will not be constant which can effect the appliances in the living quarters. A good indication is to listen to the Roof Air or the furnace fan while they're running. They will surge with the generator.
If the Generator is surging to much, - when you turn the AC on the generator dies, as mine did. If yours dies, check the fault code. Mine was blinking a 14 which means, take it to an Onan Service Center.
More often than not the cause is a varnished up carburetor. Which means the fuel has set in the carburetor too long due to not running it often enough. Onan recommends running it 2 to 3 hours a month, or using a fuel stabilizer in the fuel to keep the fuel fresh.
The normal fix is replacing the carburetor.
But, you might try this first. It doesn't work that often but it might save you a trip to the service center and a couple of hundred dollars.
I can't say for sure which part of this fixed it, I just know this is what I did.
At the Parts store, get 1 Pint of "Sea Foam Motor Treatment for Gas and Diesel Engines". One Pint treats 8 to 25 gallons. I put in 8 oz (half the can) per 8 gallons.
At the Parts store, get one aerosol can of "Sea Foam Deep Creep" - and if the Air Cleaner hasn't been changed in a while, have one of those ready. (see Onan Part Numbers) in this section.
1st - Check the Oil to make sure it's ok, and then Remove the Air Cleaner. ( see photo A & B ) Take a rag and wipe out the air cleaner housing so no dirt gets sucked into the carburetor.
2nd - Start the Generator. With the Deep Creep, spray through the air cleaner housing into the carburetor for about 4 to 5 seconds. You can look in the housing to see if your spray is going into the throat of the carburetor. The generator should rev up and stabilize for a minute or so before it ruffly idles back down. Each time it idles back down, spray again for 4 to 5 seconds. Do that about 8 to 12 times.
3rd - Next, locate the Altitude Adjustment Knob on the carburetor. With the unit still running, use your index finger on both hands (see photo C & D) and move (rotate) the Altitude Adj Knob all the way in each direction, back n forth, back n forth - about 3 dozen times and stop with the knob indicator close to whatever your altitude is, 2,500 ft is about half way between 0 and 5,000. Doesn't have to be exact.
Hopefully at this point you'll notice your generator starting to run longer at the higher RPM without ruffly idling back down. If you do not notice a change or maybe you noticed a slight change but it's still not right, repeat everything again starting with spraying into the throat of the carburetor.
If you think it helped, PUT THE COVER DOOR BACK ON THE GENERATOR AND let the Generator run for an hour. After an hour, put the Air Cleaner back on. After another 30 min turn the AC on and leave everything on for about 2 hours.
If this made no difference at all, more than likely it's going to need a new carb, but a second opinion would be good. There is no cleaning the carburetor and they don't make kits for 'em.
Why does my generator quit when I turn the AC on?
If your Generator dies when you turn your air conditioner on, see "Air Conditioning" under Living Quarters in FAQ.
Jacks
Electric Jack Info
Normally there is not a Key with the Electric type Jack.
In this photo you see a standard 2 speed Jack with the Electric Gear Box attached.
If you already have a 2 speed Jack, the Electric Gear Box can be installed anytime.
If you have a Single Speed Jack, check with your trailer dealer to see if the Electric Gear Box is available.
Some Electric Gear Boxes have a way to operate the Jack if there were a malfunction on the electrical part.
They are a bit slower than the Hydraulic, but it's a lot better than the manual crank.
Electric Jack Photo
Photo of Electric Jack
This shows the Electric Gear Box mounted to a Standard Two Speed Jack.
Equilizer Jack Systems Website
Go to Equilizer for information on more Jacks and Manuals of operation. http://www.equalizersystems.com/Horse_Hydraulic.asp
How does the Manual Override work on a Hydrualic Jack?
Manual Override operation for the Equalizer AM/CM Series Single Leg Hydraulic Jack
** RETRACTING THE JACK, - You want to hook up the trailer to your truck.
1. Get Hitch Ball on your truck lined up under the Trailer Coupler.
2. Remove the Jack Cover and locate the Valve with the Red Knob - ( see photo below )
3. Using your fingers, pull Out on the Red Knob and the trailer will start to lower under it's own weight. USE CAUTION AT THIS POINT. If you want to stop the lowering, release the RED KNOB.
4. Once the weight of the trailer is off the Jack, the trailer should be hooked up at this point. To finish raising the Jack, pull out on the RED KNOB again, and turn it about 1/2 turn and the knob will remain in the Out Position.
5. Insert the Handle into the Hand Pump and start pumping. The Jack will start retracting. It may take a lot of pumps to get the Jack fully retracted to the point where the foot is tight against the Outer Tube of the Jack.
6. When the Jack's up all the way, Turn the RED KNOB back 1/2 turn so that it returns to the IN Position.
7. Remove the Jack Handle, put it up and replace the Jack Cover.
** EXTENDING THE JACK - You want to Unhook the Trailer.
1. Remove the Jack Cover, put the Pump Handle in the Hand Pump and start pumping.
*** For more information on the popular Equalizer Single Leg Hydraulic Jack, go here http://www.equalizersystems.com/documents/Single_Leg_AM_CM_20,_24_and_30...
or go to Equalizer for information on more Jacks and Manuals of operation. http://www.equalizersystems.com/Horse_Hydraulic.asp
Hydraulic Jack Photo
Photo of Hydraulic Jack
Troubleshooting the Equilizer Single Leg Hydraulic Jack
Three problems you might have.
Jack warranty service or repair call (800) 846-9659 for prior authorization.
1.) If the Jack wants to run in just one direction no matter which way you push the switch, normally that means an extremely low battery. Charge the batteries for about 15 or 20 min. and try it again.
2,) If you can hear the Jack running but the Jack Foot is not moving, and if it's equipped with a manual pump:
Photo A shows the Manual Pump removed. Not all Hydraulic Jacks have this option. If the Jack has a Manual Pump Attachment, make sure the large nut is tight that you see in Photo A. If it's tight, go to Step 3.
3.) With the Trailer still hooked to your pickup. Remove the Manual Pump Attachment by unscrewing same Large Nut. Photo B shows the end that's in the pump. What you see is a bad Back up Ring, yellow in color and it looks like it's been pinched.
What's missing is the O-Ring. There should be an O-Ring and a Back Up Ring. Photo C at the pointer, shows the new O-Ring and Back Up Ring. Check to make sure the O-Rings are not damaged. Color makes no difference, these new ones are both black.
O-Ring Part # 568-014
Back Up Ring Part # 575-014
Google up O-Rings and find a location in your town, - the part numbers are universal.
Damaged or missing O-Rings will cause the Jack not to operate in the Electric or Manual Mode.
4.) If the Jack Leg is "jerky", there may be air in the system. Check the Fluid level then run the Jack to full extension and retraction at least twice, to purge any air out of the lines.
Note: If you leave the Key in the ON position while the trailer is just sitting, it may run your batteries down. Leaving the key "ON" will continually draw approx. 3 amps.
For Jack warranty service or repair call (800) 846-9659 for prior authorization.
What Fluid do I use in my Hydraulic Jack?
Use Dextron III Automatic Transmission Fluid. When the leg is fully retracted, the fluid level in the reservoir should be approximately one inch below the fill cap.
Manual Jack Info
There is no switch to operate the jack you just have to locate the Handle and start cranking.
Living Quarters
Detectors, Safety
There are several Safety Detectors installed in your Living Quarters.
1.) LP Detector will alert you if the LP Detector senses a leak. This Detector can be operated by batteries, usually AA, or it may be hard wired into the 12 volt DC circuit and protected by a fuse in the Converter.
There are normally two types of Detectors, and sense propane is a heavy gas, you'll find the Propane Detector located close to the Floor
** One type just sounds an alert if a Leak is Detected.
** The other type sounds an alert and also automatically turns off the flow of propane into the Living Quarters if a Leak is Detected. This type of Detector has a Switch that has to be in the "ON" position if any propane appliances are to be used. When you first set the switch to "ON", you will hear a chirping sound which is normal while the Detector is warming up. After 30 to 60 seconds or so, the chirping will stop and you'll see a green light blinking on the Detector which means "normal" operation. When you see the Green Light Blinking, you can now operate the propane appliances. If a Leak is Detected, an alarm will sound "AND" the propane will cease to enter your Living Quarters. It's not unusual for the Detector to take more than 60 seconds to warm up.
This Detector is wired to the 12 volt DC circuit in the Living Quarters and is protected by a 12 volt automotive type fuse in the converter. Anytime the 12 Volt DC is turned off or is interrupted, the Detector will start a very rapid chirping sound to alert you of the fact. The Detector would then need to be turned "OFF" and then turned back "ON" to re-set it.
2.) Carbon Monoxide Detector will alert you of the presence of Carbon Monoxide. The Carbon Monoxide Detector does have an expiration date printed on it's face. This Detector can be operated by batteries, usually AA, or it may be hard wired into the 12 volt DC circuit and protected by a fuse in the Converter.
Carbon Monoxide is a light gas so the Detector will normally be located in the Bed area of the Living Quarters, which is more often than not at a higher level in the trailer.
A Generator produces Carbon Monoxide. All on board Generators should be installed so it will exhaust outside the trailer. Do Not set a Portable Generator inside the Horse Compartment. All Portable Generators should be operated in the open air.
Situation: You are sleeping in the nose of the trailer with a window open, and someone pulls in next to you. They get out of their truck to unload the horses but leave their truck running. The exhaust from their truck may start to enter your trailer though the open window. It's a good idea that everyplace in your trailer that has a sleeping quarters, there should be a Carbon Monoxide Detector. (Bunk Beds)
3.) Smoke Alarm is normally located on the Ceiling somewhere and more often than not operates on AA Batteries.
4.) Fire Extinguisher - check it often to make sure it's ready to use.
Hazards and Safety
1.) Propane is a very safe fuel, but there are things you need to know.
The LP Propane Detector is normally located close to the floor. Propane is supposedly a heavy gas, so if there is a leak, the gas will settle close to the floor.
There are Propane Detectors that will sound an alert if a leak is detected, and there are detectors that will sound an alert and also turn off the supply of propane entering your living quarters, if a leak is detected.
If you have a 3 burner cook top, the knobs are probably close to the outside edge. Watch for people leaning back on these knobs and accidentally turn them on. They're real handy also for kids to reach up and play with.
see also, "LP System (Propane)" in this section of FAQ
2.) A Generator produces Carbon Monoxide. All on board Generators should be installed so it will exhaust outside the trailer. DO NOT operate a Portable Generator from inside the Horse Compartment. Portable Generators should be operated in the open air.
see also, "Portable Generator vs On Board Generator" at Generators in FAQ
Situation: You are sleeping in the nose of the trailer with a window open, and someone pulls in next to you. They get out of their truck to unload the horses but leave their truck running. The exhaust from their truck may start to enter your trailer through the open window. It's a good idea that everyplace in your trailer that has a sleeping quarters (Bunk Beds) , there should be a Carbon Monoxide Detector.
Things are not working, - why?
1.) Generator is running but there's no power coming in to the Living Quarters.
** Check the Breaker at the Generator.
2.) Refrigerator
** AU Mode - Automatic, 120 volt is the default - fyi
** AC Mode - 120 volt only, Power Cord must be plugged in or Generator Running.
** LP Mode - Propane & Batteries must be "ON".
** Frig won't light on LP - Check to make sure there's no trash blocking the ignitor.
3.) Hot Water Heater, Propane
** Propane & Batteries must be "ON".
4.) Furnace, Propane
** Propane & Batteries must be "ON"
Note: If you have a cook top, light the cook top to see if propane is present.
Note: If you're dry camping, is the Battery Switch "ON" if applicable? and are the batteries low.
5.) Do the 120 Volt Plugs not work? One of the plugs has a GFI (Ground Fault Indicator) that may have tripped and needs to be reset.
Note: TV, Frig and Microwave will not work on 120 Volt AC if a GFI plug has tripped. Hair Dryers can overload and trip a circuit.
** Below is photo of a GFI 120 Volt Plug. You should find at least one of these somewhere inside the Living Quarters. In the center there is a button, when tripped it will be out. Push in to Reset.
Appliances, which ones run on 12 volt DC?
Below is a list of items that require 12 Volt DC to run.
** Water Pump for the Fresh Water Tank
** A Propane Hot Water Heater also requires 12 Volt DC.
** A Frig that operates on Propane also needs 12 Volt DC
** Furnace that operates on Propane also need 12 Volt DC
** Interior Lights. More often than not, all Interior lights run on 12 Volt DC
** Monitor Panel
** Ducted Roof Air Conditioner uses 120 Volt AC & 12 volt DC
** Thermostat
** Carbon Monoxide Detector if it's not battery operated.
** Radios and CD Players
** LP Detector
** Power Vents like in the Bathroom
** Electric and Hydraulic Jacks
** Some Slide Outs
** Some Awnings
Appliances, which ones run on 120 volt AC
Below is a list of appliances that require 120 Volts AC.
** Roof Air Conditioner
** Heat Strip in the AC
** Microwave
** TV - a TV may also run on 12 volt DC
** Refrigerators - some operate on LP Gas (Propane) and/or both.
** Converter requires 120 Volt AC
** Hot Water Heater - more popular is LP Gas (Propane), but it can also be both.
** DVD and VCR's
Awnings
If you have an Electric Awning or sometimes called a 1 Step Awning, do not rely on the wind sensor to work every time. If you think there might be a problem, you can disable the Wind Sensor if so equipped and use the main switch every time you want the awning in or out. If you don't know how to disable the awning, ask your dealer.
If your 2-Step awning does not roll up like you think it should.
1.) If it's fairly new or it hasn't been used that much, an RV Dealer can tighten the Spring which will make it roll up without any help.
2.) If it's been used a lot, the spring may need to be replaced by an RV Dealer.
3.) If you do not hear the clicking sound when your rolling up the awning, it's possible the awning could come open going down the road. So until you can get it to an RV Dealer for service, when the awning is out - take a small hammer, butt end of a screw driver of something, and tap on the end of the awning where the switch is, which if your facing the awning, the switch is on the end to your right. Try rolling it up and listen for the clicking sound. If you don't hear it, tap on it some more and try it again. Normally if you keep trying, you'll free it up and you should hear the clicking as the awning goes all the way in.
Holding Tank, Fresh Water
If you will look
Holding Tanks, Black&Gray
Patching a Hole in a Holding Tank is fairly easy, unless the hole is much larger than a 50 cent piece. Cracks are no problem either.
Microwaves
The Dometic Microwave Model COM W12B made by LG is very popular in Living Quarter Trailers.
Go to this link to order a Glass Plate for any Microwave. If they don't show the one you're looking for , email 'em or give 'em a call, they will have it.
web site www.martinmicrowave.com
877-894-0035
or email martinmicrowave@comcast.net
Monitor Panel
If the Holding Tanks or Fresh Water Tank is empty, there should only be one light showing. If there is more than one light showing when you know the tanks are empty, try this:
1. On the Black Holding Tank which services the Toilet - There are normally 4 small probes attached to the holding tank. If you look at one end of the Holding Tank, you'll see a small fitting with a very small wire attached. There should be approx 4 of these at different levels on the tank. As the water level increase inside the tank, the water reaches a probe, that completes the circuit and another light is visible at the monitor panel. Toilet Paper or whatever can hang up on the probes after the water has been drained, which can cause the Monitor panel to display inaccurately. That's why it's a good idea to use Biodegradable Toilet Paper. To fix this, put a water hose through the Toilet and fill the Holding Tank up as much as possible. Give it 30 min. or so and then drain the water. Check the Monitor Panel to see if the lights are working properly. If not, do it again. Normally two times is plenty. (Note: Most RV Dealers carry a Sprayer that you hook up to a garden hose and is made for cleaning out a Holding Tank. Inexpensive Tool.)
2. You might try this also, just before you leave out with the trailer, dump a couple of bags of Ice through the Toilet. The Ice will slosh around inside the tank cleaning the walls and loosening stuff up. When it melts, it will all drain out.
3. To check out the wiring Circuit. Take a length of automotive wire (10 gauge to 24 gauge ) whatever you can find and just about anything will work, - Strip 1/2" of insulation off each end. Put one end of the wire on the bare metal part of the lowest probe, where the small wire is attached. Put the other end on any part of the metallic Trailer frame. Check the Monitor panel and see if it's reading correctly. What you're doing, is checking for a good Ground. A Bad Ground is a popular problem.
4. If the Fresh Water Tank is not reading correctly, normally a Bad Ground is the problem. There are normally 4 small probes attached to the tank. If you look at one end of the Tank, you'll see a small fitting with a very small wire attached. There should be approx 4 of these at different levels on the tank. As the water level increase inside the tank, the water reaches a probe, which completes the circuit and another light is visible at the monitor panel. To check for a Bad Ground, take a length of automotive wire (10 gauge to 24 gauge ) whatever you can find and just about anything will work, - Strip 1/2" of insulation off each end. Put one end of the wire on the bare metal part of the lowest probe where the small wire is attached. Put the other end on any part of the metallic Trailer frame. Check the Monitor panel and see if it's reading correctly. What you're doing, is checking for a good Ground and you can do all this with your bare hands because your working with 12 volt (auto voltage).
4. It is not uncommon for a new trailer to have a faulty Monitor Panel
Propane Bottle Regulator
If you have 2 Propane Bottles, more often than not, the Regulator is a "Changeover Regulator."
This is how it works:
Assuming both propane bottles have propane in them, - TURN BOTH BOTTLES ON.
Rotate the Black Lever towards one of the bottles, doesn't make any difference which one. Some Changeover Regulators have a Slide switch, if so - slide it towards one of the bottles.
Which ever bottle the lever is pointing towards will now be the "Service" bottle and the other bottle, Reserve.
Note: Turning the Lever straight up is not a correct, it should point to one of the bottles.
The Indicator on top of the Regulator will be Green, and will stay Green as long as the Service bottle has propane in it.
When the Service bottle is empty, the Indicator will turn RED telling you it's out of propane, - but the regulator will have automatically switched to the Reserve bottle to give you an uninterrupted flow of propane. This is a really nice feature at 2:00 AM when it's 20 degrees outside, because your wife is not going to get out of bed to turn the other bottle on.
The next morning when you see the Indicator is now RED, turn the Switch to the other bottle (which now becomes the Service bottle) and the Indicator will turn GREEN again.
Turn the empty bottle off, and at your convenience, get the empty bottle filled.
The process then repeats itself.
Refrigerators
You can run down the road with the Frig set on LP (Propane) and it'll keep your food cold.
see also, (I have never owned a Living Quarters, What do I do?) in FAQ.
Outside the trailer, take off the lower vented panel at the Refrigerator so you can see the back of it. The vertical metal 3" diameter tube in the photo should be hot to the touch if the Frig is working properly on the LP Gas setting or the Electric setting. If it's running on LP there is a flame burning at the base of the metal tube. If it's running on electric there's a heating element a little higher on the tube. It's easy to find, just follow the wires to it.
It doesn't make any difference if it's a small or large frig, this metal tube will normally be in the same place, on the right hand side of the Frig
Now, this doesn't mean your Frig is cooling. But if there is a problem with the cooling, more often than not this is the problem area. Either the Flame is out or the Heating Element is not working.
The Heating Element is easy and cheap to change out. If there is no Flame in the Gas Mode, it could be several things.
Fault Codes for Norcold Models ( N64X, N64X-IM, N84X-IM )
How to start your Frig.
For 6.0 Refrigerators and larger.
** Remember, It takes 8 hrs or so for an initial cool down. The Freezer will be your first indication if the Frig is cooling down.
** Make sure the Propane Bottles are ON, and if you're not sure about the regulator, make sure the lever is pointed towards the bottle with the propane.
** If you have an LP Detector that operates a Safety Solenoid, make sure the Green Light is Blinking. Note: some trailers have a basic LP Detector and then some have the Detector with a built in Safety Switch that if the Detector sniffs propane, the Detector with automatically shut the flow of propane off allowing no propane to enter the Living Quarters. A Standard LP Detector will not interfere with the operation of LP Appliances. The LP Detector is located inside the Living Quarters. The Safety Solenoid is normally under the trailer right behind the Propane Bottles. Locate the Propane Line leaving the Propane Regulator, - look for a gadget with wires. (see LP Detectors for photo)
** Check your Monitor Panel if you have one to see how hot your batteries are. There must be good 12 volt present.
** If you have recently changed out the propane bottles or if it's been awhile since you last used the Frig., the air may need to be purged from the gas line. Which means you need to turn the Frig On, wait for it to go through a lighting cycle, if it does not light, turn the Frig Off then back on again. Repeating these steps 6 to 10 times will usually purge all the air out of the propane line.
6.0 Frig & Larger - for Norcold models N64X, N64X-IM, N84X-IM. Some of this general information would apply to other Refrigerators as well.
** Remember, It takes 8 hrs or so for an initial cool down. The Freezer will be your first indication if the Frig is cooling down.
** The best Mode Setting is Automatic, which means if the Frig is in the Automatic Mode and if both 120 volt AC and LP Gas are present, the Frig will run on 120 volt AC first, which is the Default. If 120 volt AC is not present, the Frig will automatically start on LP Gas as long as LP Gas is available.
1. If you think 120 volt AC is present, and the Frig wants to just run on LP Gas, take the outside Vent Cover off exposing the rear of the Frig and check the 120 volt AC receptacle the Frig is plugged into to see if it's hot. Plug a hair Dryer or something like that in. If you find out the receptacle is dead, find the 120 volt AC Receptacle inside the Living Quarter that is equipped with a GFI ( Ground Fault Indicator ) it may need to be reset.
2. A Bus type Fuse in the Control Board might have blown. The Control Board is mounted to the back wall of the Frig and it will have wires going to it. (see photo) take the cover off the control board normally with a 1/4" nut driver and you'll see the fuse.
3. If all the above is working and seems normal but the Frig still will not run on AC, it probably needs a new Control Board.
4. Make sure the Propane Bottles are ON, and if you're not sure about the regulator, make sure the lever is pointed towards the propane bottle, lever pointing straight up is not correct. ( see Propane Bottle Regulator, this section ).
5. If you have an LP Detector that operates a Safety Solenoid, make sure the Green Light is Blinking on the LP Detector, which is normal. Note: some trailers have a basic LP Detector, and then some have the Detector with a built in Safety Switch which means if the Detector sniffs propane, the Detector will automatically shut the flow of propane off allowing no propane to enter the Living Quarters. A Standard LP Detector will not interfere with the operation of LP Appliances. The LP Detector is located inside the Living Quarters. The Safety Solenoid is normally under the trailer right behind the Propane Bottles. Locate the Propane Line leaving the Propane Regulator, - look for a gadget with wires. (see LP Detectors for photo)
6. Check your Monitor Panel if you have one, to see how full your batteries are. There must be good 12 volt present for the LP Mode.
7. If you have recently changed out the propane bottles or if it's been awhile since you last used the Frig., the air may need to be purged from the gas line. Which means you need to turn the Frig On and wait for it to go through a lighting cycle. If it does not light, turn the Frig OFF then back ON again. Repeating these steps, sometimes as many as 6 to 10 times will usually purge all the air out of the propane line.
8. If the Display Panel on the Frig says it's working, but the Frig is not getting cold, more than likely it's a faulty Control Board. The Control Board on some Large Refrigerators can be reset. Might try this before buying a new board. A good RV Tech will know how to reset the power board on the Frig., it's very simple and fast. Installing a new power board is very fast as well.
9. If the Frig does not start on LP, see if you can hear the ignitor clicking. Best heard at the vent panel behind the Frig outside the trailer. If is nice and quite, you should hear it clicking from inside the trailer. If it's not trying to light/clicking, check to see it your batteries are ON.
10, If the Frig lights and works for a few minutes or a couple of hours and quits, - more often than not, the gap setting on the ignitor is not set to the proper gap. The Electrode tip-to-burner air gap, should be 1/8 to 3/16 inch. This is an easy fix for an RV Tech and can be a problem on a new Frig.
11. If the Frig does not work on either AC or LP more often than not the Control Board needs to be reset or a New Control Board.
The Mode Switch on a 6.0 or the Dial on a 3.0
Satellites
Your Satellite system is either Dish Network or Direct TV.
If you have Direct TV, check to see if there is a card in the Receiver. If not, and you can't find the card, from what I understand you have to get a new receiver that comes with a card.
If you have Dish, there's a place for a card but a card is not always required for Satellite service.
To Set Up:
1. Turn on the Receiver and the TV.
2. Turn on the Satellite. The Satellite on top will start searching for a signal. It may take several minutes, but once it's locked on and you have a picture, turn the Satellite off.
3. Call Direct TV (800) 347-3288 or Dish Network (800) 333-3474 - to set up your account.
4. Be sure to tell them that it's in an RV and you want the status to always be active. If you only use the satellite a couple of times a month, you don't want them shutting it off for lack of use.
Solar Panel
More about Solar Panels
Winterizing
You start by draining all the Water.
Air Conditioning Information and Troubleshooting
Can my AC be recharged to make the air colder?
My experience has been, most Roof Air's are not made to recharge with Refrigerant. I'm sure there are exceptions, but you don't run across them that often on Horse Trailers. It's a closed system and there is no port in the line to accept the Refrigerant. A good AC Tech can install a port and charge the system, but it can cost more than half the price of a new roof air, depending on where the purchase it made. If you don't know what to look for, you'll just have to have someone look at it that's knowledgeable.
Some manufacturers offer a 3 year warranty, so that might be an option depending on the diagnosis.
Ducted Air or Direct Discharge, - Which system do I have?
A Ducted Air Conditioning System has vents which are placed at various places in the ceiling to distribute the air evenly and normally the Thermostat is located on a wall.
\With a Direct Discharge system the cold air comes right out the Main Air Conditioner where the Controls are located. Each system can have the optional Heating Element or Heat Strip. In my opinion, Electric heat will only knock the chill off a cool day, it is not sufficient to warm your house on a cold day. A Ducted Air System runs only when it needs to. A Direct Discharge Roof Air runs all the time, and the cooling unit comes on when needed. Ducted Air would be top of the line for cooling.
How can I tell if my Roof Air is working properly?
That would be a question for a good RV Tech, - but this might help you understand better how your Roof Air Cools.
The most popular Roof Air is a 13,500 BTU. Which means it can remove 13,500 BTU's of Heat in one hour.
As a rule the air coming out of the Roof Air (discharge air) should be 15 to 20 degrees cooler than the air entering the roof air (return air), which is the air in the Living Quarters. So the cooler the air starts out in the LQ, the colder the air comes out of the Roof Air.
The ability of the Roof Air to cool down your LQ, or maintain the temperature you have it set at, is dependent on the Heat Gain of the Living Quarters.
So anything you can do, like parking in the shade, limiting the number of times the door is opened, cooking on a grill outside instead of inside on the cook top, window shades, - things like that. Anything to help keep it be cooler will help the Roof Air.
For Example: If the air inside your LQ is 95 degrees, (that would be the air entering the Roof Air), the 'air coming out' of the Roof Air should be 15 to 20 degrees cooler, or 75 to 80 degrees. So anything you can do to reduce the "Heat Gain" the cooler your LQ will stay.
So because it's so hot outside, there may be 16,000 BTU's of Heat inside and the Roof Air can only remove 13,500 BTU's in an hour, - so there's 2,500 BTU's it couldn't remove. And every hour that passes that number keeps growing, which makes is very difficult for the Roof Air to keep up.
I hear it humming, why isn't is blowing?
If it's been a while since you last ran the Roof Air, get on top of the trailer and pull the shroud off the air conditioner. You'll probably only need a phillips screwdriver or a 1/4" nut driver, or better yet someone on the ground to throw you tools. Check the Fan to see if it turns freely. Sometimes, Mud Dobbers will build a nest around the fan. If that's not the problem, at least you know how the shroud comes off.
Photos, Ducted & Direct Discharge....
1. Photo A. is looking up at the ceiling. This is what a Ducted AC looks like. You can open or close vents at this point. If you close all or part of these vents, the Air Conditioning would be redirected and would come out at vents/regulators that are distributed through out the ceiling.
2. Photo D. is a Wall Mounted Thermostat for a Ducted Air System. There are other styles, this being one example.
3. Photo C & E is looking at the Ceiling of a Direct Discharge AC system. The Controls are on the Unit, and the air is discharged from this single location, unlike Ducted Air that can be distributed through out the Living Quarters.
You can see the Ducted Unit sets more Flush in the ceiling, not much hanging down.
Each system can have the optional Heating Element or Heat Strip. In my opinion, Electric heat will only knock the chill off a cool day, it is not sufficient to warm your house on a cold day. A Ducted Air System runs only when it needs to. A Direct Discharge Roof Air runs all the time and the cooling unit comes on when needed. Ducted Air would be top of the line for cooling.
Why does my Generator quit when I turn my AC "ON"?
Does your Generator quit running when you turn the AC on?
I can't remember this happening with a Ducted System, only a Direct Discharge system.
The Generator would run fine and the AC would run fine when the AC was in the "Fan" only position. But when I turned the AC to "Cool" the Generator died. And it wouldn't do it every time, but more often than not it killed the Generator.
I kept playing with the knobs on the AC and found out if I moved from "Fan" to "Cool" very, very slow the Generator would keep running. In years past I've replaced the Roof Air Unit when this happened, but this time I decided to replace just the Lower Unit, the part inside the Living Quarters with the Controls.
Fixed, I spent $75.00 instead of $650.
Why is water running off the roof of my trailer?
Water running off the roof is normal Condensation from the Roof Air.
Water Leaking from the Roof Air into the Living Quarters is not normal.
From inside the Living Quarters, there are 4 bolts that need to be tightened. You first have to take the shroud off. The Bolt Heads are in each corner of a 14" square. There is a gasket between the Roof Air and the Roof. The gasket over time has lost it's ability to make a tight seal. Further tightening of the bolts will draw the Roof Air down tighter on the roof therefor compressing the Gasket more. It shouldn't take much.
Why won't my Ducted Air Conditioner come on?
If you have a Ducted Air system, 12 volt as well as 110 volt must be present before your AC will run. So if you're having Battery issues or converter issues this may be the problem with your AC not coming on.
** With a Ducted system, If you turned the AC 'OFF' and then turned it right back 'ON' again, it probably didn't come on. There is a Time Delay that takes over when the AC is turned off - for system protection. Wait about 5 minutes after you turn the AC 'OFF' before you turn it back 'ON' and more than likely it'll fire right back up again.
If you have a Direct Discharge System, 110 volt is all that's needed.
Heating Information and Troubleshooting
How does Electric Heat work?
Electric Heat originates in the Roof Air Conditioner, so it requires 120 Volt AC to operate.
You can have Electric Heat in a Ducted or Direct Discharge System, (see also, "Air Conditioning" in this Living Quarter section).
Have the Generator running or have the Power Cord plugged in. If you have Ducted AC also have the propane bottles on and your LP Detector on, if so equipped with the Safety Solenoid.
If you have a Direct Discharge AC, simply set the indicator located on the unit itself to Heat.
If you have a Ducted AC, set the Thermostat on the wall to Electric Heat and set the desired temperature. If there is more that 10 degrees difference in the room temperature and the setting, the Propane Furnace will come on first to quickly warm things up. When the room temperature warms enough to close that 10 degree gap the Propane Furnace will automatically shut off and the Electric Heat from the AC will come on. The Heat Strip in the AC will try to maintain the set temperature. If the outside temperature is too cold it can't keep up, the Living Quarter temperature will start to drop. When the temperature moves out of that 10 degree gap, the Electric Heat shuts off and the Propane Furnace takes over again.
More about LP (Gas) Propane Heat
An LP (Gas) Propane Furnace can be Direct Discharge or Ducted. Most of the time is depends on the amount of room in the Living Quarters.
Very small LQ's might have a Direct Discharge Furnace which means you can see the Furnace and all the heat comes out of the Grill. This type of unit can also have additional ducts.
If the Living Quarters is large it would require more heat and the larger Furnaces almost always use 2 to 4 ducts. You would not see the Furnace but you'd probably see the Ducts.
Either Furnace uses a Wall Mounted Thermostat.
If your Furnace does not get hot, see "Detectors, Safety" in this Living Quarter Section.
This Furnace also requires 12 volt DC to operate so be sure to keep your batteries charged if Dry Camping.
What is the difference in Electric Heat & LP (Gas) Heat?
Electric Heat uses 120 volt AC, which means your LQ has to be plugged in to an Electrical Outlet using the Power Cord, or the Generator has to be running to produce 120 volt which is required for the Heat Strip to work. (see, Do I have gas or electric heat?).
Gas Heat from the Furnace, uses LP Gas (Propane) and 12 Volt DC power.
Why doesn't my furnace cycle?
Does your furnace comes on, and then when the set temperature is reached it shuts off, but does not come back on again when it should?
It could be several things, but I'd first look at the Thermostat.
Hot Water Information and Troubleshooting
How do I operate my Hot Water Heater?
1.) First, make sure the Hot Water Heater has Water in it. If you're not sure, turn the Hot Water side of the Faucet on and see. Let if run for a couple of minutes. If it runs steady with no air sputtering out of it, it's full. If it starts coughing up air, you'll need to let it run longer. What's happening is, the Hot Water Heater is filling up with water and pushing the air out. When you get a steady stream of water with no air hiccups, it's full and it's safe to turn it on.
Note:
An Electric Start Hot Water Heater has a Safety switch that will trip (at least you hope it trips) if you should start the Hot Water Heater with no water or little water in it.
Find the Switch outside, at the Hot Water Heater.
2.) You can turn the Hot Water Heater "ON" and leave it on, or you can turn it on only when needed. It takes about 20 min to heat 6 gallons of water which is the most common size. Using it only when needed will save on propane (LP). You might also have a Hot Water Heater than runs only on 120 Volt AC or you could have one that runs on LP and 120 Volt AC. Most Hot Water Heaters use Propane and 12 volt DC Battery as the ignition, which make them self starting, - you don't need a match. If you don't have a Switch inside you'll need a match to light it outside. The Switch is normally on the Monitor Panel. If you don't find it there or if you don't have a Monitor Panel, it could be a stand alone Switch. Flip the Switch ON and a Red Light should come on. The Red light will come on for a moment while it's trying to light then it will go out. If it lights, the Red Light will not come back on, if it does not light, the Red Light comes back on. Turn it off, wait a minute and turn it back on. That starts another lighting cycle.
3.) When DRY CAMPING, - always check the Power Status of the Batteries especially when the generator is not running. If the Batteries get to low, the Frig will shut off, the Hot Water Heater will quit, and the Furnace will cease to operate. You will then need to charge the battery(ies).
How do I turn my Hot Water Heater "ON"?
The Switch is normally on the Monitor Panel. If you don't find it there or if you don't have a Monitor Panel, it could be a stand alone Switch. Flip the Switch ON and a Red Light should come on. The Red light will come on for a moment while it's trying to light then it will go out. If it lights, the Red Light will not come back on, if it does not light, the Red Light comes back on. Turn it off, wait a minute and turn it back on. That starts another lighting cycle.
Photo, Stand Alone Switch
The ON/OFF switch on a good many Hot Water Heaters is located on the Monitor Panel, if so equipped.
This is one example of a Stand Alone Switch for an Electronic Ignition Hot Water Heater. When you turn it on, a red light comes on to indicate it's working.
Propane LP Gas Information and Troubleshooting
Hazards, What to watch for
If you have a 3 burner cook top, the knobs are probably close to the outside edge. Watch for people leaning back on these knobs and accidentally turn them on. They're real handy also for kids to reach up and play with.
Propane is a very safe fuel but just like anything else you have to be careful when using it.
How can I test my LP System for Leaks?
This is a do it your self test. No Tools are required. More often than not, one or both of the Propane Hoses from the Regulator to the Tank is leaking. The rubber hose gets dry, crack and starts leaking where it enters the fitting. Using Soapy Water around the connections will help show any leaks.
Self Test for Leaks:
Turn your propane Bottle's on,
Start the Furnace and Hot water heater. Let 'em run for 10 min or so and then turn 'em off -
Turn off the Propane Bottles - and make sure the site glass on top of the regulator is showing green -
Then after 10 min or so, look to see if the site glass is still showing Green which means it's holding pressure.
If it's Red there's probably a leak somewhere because it's not holding pressure - if it's still Green then it's OK.
If it's Red and to narrow it down a little more-
Turn the Propane Bottles "ON"
Start the Furnace and Hot water heater. Let 'em run for 10 min or so and then turn 'em off -
Also turn off the Propane Detector if you have the Detector that has to be "ON" to use the propane appliances.
Turn the Propane Bottles "OFF"
Then after 10 min or so, look to see if the site glass is still showing Green, which means it's holding pressure - If it's Red there's probably a leak and it's one of the Propane Hoses from the Bottle to the Regulator - if it's still Green, it's OK.
Most likely place to find a Propane Leak...
It's possible you may have a leak at the Propane Bottles. One of the most common causes would be a hose is not tight.
Use soapy water and with the propane on, I'd check around the connections at least once every 6 months
If it's an older trailer, the seal in the throat of the bottle valve may be old and it's not mating up good when you screw the Hose on it. Seals can be changed out but it's highly recommended just to have a new Valve installed on the Propane Bottle. If it's a small 20# bottle, you may want to buy a new bottle. If it's the larger 30# bottle, replacing the valve might be more cost effective.
It's also not unusual for the hose that goes from the Propane Bottle to the Regulator to leak. Over time, the rubber hose will start to harden, and the more you mess with it like when changing the bottles, the more likely it is to start leaking.
And make sure the hose is not touching the Bottles. Vibration will create a hole in the hose. If the Hold Down Bracket is not put back correctly after you've changed out the bottles, the hose could end up rubbing on the Bottles.
Toilet Information and Troubleshooting
Do you have a Leaking Toilet?
If you have the popular Thetford Toilet Style Plus or similar.
Some Toilets have a sprayer part that's normally located in the Toilet, at the back side, up high where it's hard to see. When you flush the toilet, water sprays around the bowl. This sprayer part can build up with calcium or trash or whatever, and it needs to be cleaned out. There is a large metal type nut on the back side of the Toilet that holds the Sprayer Part in place that you need to remove in order to pull the part out. It's easier done if you pull the toilet off it's base plate. Shut the water off, undo the water line, remove 2 nuts at the base of the Toilet and the Toilet lifts right off.
If a Toilet is leaking on the floor, this is normally the problem. This same part can have a crack in the nipple that the clear plastic hose fits over. You normally can't see the crack unless you inspect it very carefully. The Sprayer part is a cheap fix.
Thetford's "Nozzle Kit" for Mod 34124 / 34125 / 34127
Toilet Problems?
If you have the popular Thetford Toilet Style Plus or similar.
Some Toilets have a sprayer part that's normally located in the Toilet, at the back side, up high where it's hard to see. When you flush the toilet, water sprays around the bowl. This sprayer part can build up with calcium or trash or whatever, and it needs to be cleaned out. There is a large metal type nut on the back side of the Toilet that holds the Sprayer Part in place that you need to remove in order to pull the part out. It's easier done if you pull the toilet off it's base plate. Shut the water off, undo the water line, remove 2 nuts at the base of the Toilet and the Toilet lifts right off.
If a Toilet is leaking, this is normally the problem. This same part can have a crack in the nipple that the clear plastic hose fits over. You normally can't see the crack unless you inspect it very carefully. The Sprayer part is a cheap fix.
( see also and photo - FAQ > Toilets > Do you have a Leaking Toilet? )
Why did my Toilet quit flushing?
If your toilet quit flushing, the valve located behind the toilet more often than not is bad and needs to be replaced. It's a very simple fix.
Remove two nuts at the base of the Toilet, remove the water line going to the toilet, and lift the toilet off it's base.
If you can't see the nuts then you have to remove the shroud to get to them. Usually there are 2 big rubber band rings at the back of the toilet that when removed, allows removal of the shroud.
If you can see a cable going to the valve assembly, then you're on the right track. This valve lets water into the toilet when you step on the pedal.
Get the Make and Model of the toilet and head for the nearest RV Dealer. Tell 'em you need the valve. The Valve assembly will come with a new floor gasket.
With new valve in hand, you'll see what you need to do to replace it. Very Simple.
Why does my Toilet run over?
If your toilet runs over from the bowl, the valve located behind the toilet more often than not is bad and needs to be replaced. It's a very simple fix.
Remove two nuts at the base of the Toilet, remove the water line going to the toilet, and lift the toilet off it's base.
If you can't see the nuts then you have to remove the shroud to get to them. Usually there are 2 big rubber band rings at the back of the toilet that when removed, allows removal of the shroud.
Get the Make and Model of the toilet and head for the nearest RV Dealer. Tell 'em you need the valve. The Valve assembly will come with a new floor gasket.
With new valve in hand, you'll see what you need to do to replace it. Very Simple.
Water Information and Troubleshooting
Example of City Water Hookup
This photo is one example of what the City Water Hookup might look like on your trailer. You'll attach a garden hose here and the other end to a regular water faucet. Be sure the 12 volt water pump inside the Living Quarters is Off.
I think I might have a water leak, help me out.....
If you found water where it's not supposed to be, you have a leak.
1. If the leak seems to be in the main area and not the bathroom, check the pump. If you're coming out of the winter months, it's possible the pump head froze and busted. This is one of the first places to look.
2. Maybe you're not sure if you have a leak. Do this, - turn your 12 volt pump on, and with all the faucets off and double make sure they are off, listen for the pump to come on. If you don't hear the pump come on after 5 mins. or so, you probably do not have a constant leak. If you hear the pump, it will only be for a second or so, not very long, so make sure it's quit. It's possible that you'll still have a leak even if you didn't hear the pump. See next paragraph.
3. If you found water on the bathroom floor, it's probably the Toilet or the Shower. If you narrowed it down to the toilet, it could be leaking at a crack in a plastic fitting that a hose slides over, - and the only time it leaks is when the toilet is flushed, - and only time you will hear the pump come on is when you flush the toilet which would be correct.
( see FAQ > Toilet > Do you have a Leaking Toilet? )
4. If you think it's the shower. Is the only time you see water on the floor, after a shower? Even if you have a Glass Surround, it could still be leaking through seams and screws. Use Clear Silicon Caulk and caulk all the seams again, even the screw heads that might be in the trim edges, caulk everything from inside the shower.
5. It could be leaking behind the shower faucets. You'll have to take the screws out, and pull the faucet assembly out and away so you can see behind it, - turn the pump on and look for a leak at one of the fittings.
You could have a leak any where, these are the some of the most common areas to check first.
Why does my water pressure pulsate?
If the water pressure is fast and then slow and then fast again, in other words it's pulsating, that might mean there is blockage due to trash or even calcium build up from hard water. Unscrew the airiator out of the end of each faucet and turn the water back on. If pressure stays fast and full then the airiator is plugged up. Clean it or replace it. Same for the shower. Take the Head off the Hose, turn the water on and see if it runs full flow.
Why does the water pressure start out strong, then slows to almost nothing?
This normally means the water pump is not getting all the water required to hold full pressure in the lines. Somewhere between the pump and the Fresh Water Tank there is blockage. Trash can get in to the tank and then the pump sucks it up in the line and blocks the water from getting to the pump. This is common also in New Trailers from construction trash. First, drain the water from the Fresh Water Tank. Disconnect the water line on the Tank side of the Water Pump as close to the Pump as possible. With compressed air, blow the line out back towards the tank. If there is a Water Filter, clean or replace. If your lucky, the trash collected in the water filter, otherwise there is no easy way to get it out of the fresh water tank. Just hope it's a long time before it gets sucked back up in the line, and the best way is to not let the water level in the fresh water tank get really low.
Camera Systems
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Find the right Camera System for your Living Quarter Horse Trailer
Voyager, see link below:
http://www.rvcams.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=RBCA...
Ranch Cams, see link below:
http://www.ranchcams.net/
Horse Trailer Monitor, see link below:
http://www.horsetrailermonitor.com/
Greenslade Trailer Vision, see link below:
http://www.horsetrailersales.co.uk/trailervision.htm
Trailer Cam, see link below:
http://www.huntercreekvideo.com/trailer_cam.htm
Trailer Eyes, see link below:
http://www.trailereyes.com/
Horse Trailer Camera, see link below:
http://www.videosystemsbyjim.com/horse%20trailer%20wired.html
Printing, How to Print FAQ
An easy way to print FAQ, is highlight what you want to print, copy and paste it to an email, a word document, note pad or anything that's handy, and then print it.
Slide Outs / Pop Outs, parts and information
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Where can I get parts for my Electric & Hydraulic Slide Outs?
Some parts for your Electric or Hydrualic Slide Out can be from Lippert Components
http://store.lci1.com/shared/StoreFront/default.asp?CS=lci&StoreType=Bto...
http://store.lci1.com/shared/StoreFront/default.asp?CS=lci&StoreType=Bto...
Stolen Trailers
If someone stole your Living Quarter Horse Trailer, send us photos and information by email and we will send notice to all Dealers. stolen@equinerv.com
Eventually we'll have a page dedicated just for stolen trailers.
A GPS systems installed on your trailer usually helps you sleep better, and works best before someone steals your trailer.
Painting your name or phone number on top of the trailer in 4 foot tall letters will help if viewed from an airplane. A thief will normally not look on top.
If you should have your trailer stolen, one of the first places to look are places where Campers, RV's, Fifth Wheels and Motor Homes might park for short or extended stays. A thief will steal your trailer, park it in one of these places and rent it out for a steady income every month. It's off the road where no one would see it, and he doesn't have to worry about a title.
Cleaning your Aluminum Trailer
You can wash and clean your aluminum trailer easy enough, but when it comes to deep cleaning the natural aluminum part of the trialer, it tends to get a little more involved if you want to do it yourself.
The colored aluminum for example like white, red and black, you can wash with soap and water.
The natural aluminum normally needs to be cleaned with an acid or citric base solution.
But, there are other alternatives as would be explained in the link below.
http://www.dakotasolutions.us/#/Home
Since the normal owner wouldn't need to deep clean the aluminum but maybe once or twice a year, taking you trailer to a truck wash might be a simpler solution.
Truck washes like a Blue Beacon are open 24 hrs a day. You drive in, they direct you into the wash bay and it's about that simple. Tell them you want to wash and brighten the trailer and you want it rinsed very good. They will also wash your truck. Depending on the size of your trailer, it might cost $35 to $60 and take maybe 30 min.
If you want to do it your self, NAPA offers a product called Aluminum Brightener # 1478. It's going to take you 3 to 4 hrs to do it right, a 2 gallon pump sprayer and water.
Did you put Gasoline in your Diesel Tank by mistake?
If you put Gasoline in your Diesel Pickup by mistake, this is what I did to prevent major engine damage. I did not have to drain the fuel tank, and it cost less than $40.00 to cure the problem.
I had an 03 Dodge with a 5.9 Cummins Diesel. The factory tank held about 35 gallons and my saddle tank held about 42 gallons, about 77 gallons total. I had maybe 5 gallons of diesel in the truck when I started to fill up. After I'd put 20 gallons of gasoline in, I realized my mistake. At that point I put in 4 or 5 qts of motor oil and finished topping off the tank with diesel. Approximately 25% of my capacity was gasoline.
My pickup started right up and I drove 10 miles to Walmart to buy more motor oil. I think I added 3 or 4 more quarts of oil to the diesel tank. When I tried to start it, it would not start.
I removed the Fuel Filter and filled the canister with standard Transmission Fluid, put the Fuel Filter back on and it started right up. I had to make a 300 mile trip the next day pulling a trailer, so every 60 miles or so, I topped off the tank with diesel for the entire 600 mile round trip, and I continued to top off the tank every 60 miles for a week or so. I put a new fuel filter on at the end of my trip and changed it again three weeks later. After that, and every time I put in 30 to 35 gallons of diesel, I added a quart of Transmission Fluid for 3 or 4 months. It took a few months before it finally quit smoking, which was not much to begin with.
Maybe I was lucky, I don't know - but I've put well over 150,000 miles on my truck since then with no problems.
If you have a similar story, we'd love to hear about it. contactus@equinerv.com
Do you have a"Fix It Tip"you'd like to pass on to others?
If you know something that would help others trouble shoot their Living Quarters, or maybe you just have a helpful Tip, let us know what it is and we'll add it in the appropriate location on FAQ. We appreciate your input, and those who you'll help will appreciate it also. contactus@equinerv.com
Do you know someone that has a Service Shop?
If you know of a good service shop that works on Horse Trailers and/or Living Quarters, or maybe they specialize in just Generators or Roof Airs or whatever, - let us know and we'll add them to the list. Someone out there will "Thank You" many times over. contactus@equinerv.com
Locate a Service Shop in your area.
AZ - Casa Grande - Norris RV - 520-836-7921 - Trailer and Conversions
AZ - Phoenix Area - Mobile Truck Service - 480-380-3801 - Conversions, Toters, Trailers
AZ - Phoenix - Mesa Precision - 480-969-5851 - Generators only
AZ - Tucson - Cholla Metal - 520-882-8905 - Trailers, some RV
CO - Frederick - Trans West Truck & Trailer - 866-944-2581 - Full Service
CO - Fort Morgan - Great West - 970-867-3544 - Full Service
NM - Edgewood - Sandia Trailer - 505-281-9860 - I-40 East of Albueq.
OK - Oklahoma City - Double B Conversions - 405-917-5900 - Conversion only
OK - Oklahoma City - MD Trailer Service - 405-236-3114 - mostly Trailers
OK - Oklahoma City - Central States - 800-696-2989 - Full Service
TX - Stephenville - Outlaw Conversions - 254-968-5733 - Conversion only
TX - Weatherford - Wayne Hodges TRL Sales - 817-599-6488 - Full Service
TX - Amarillo - Foust Trailer Sales - 806-331-2420 - Full Service
TX - Amarillo - Hawkins Equip - 806-372-3949 - Trailers
What is a Recreation Vehicle (RV)?
A Recreation Vehicle (RV) is a vehicle designed as a temporary living quarters for recreational travel.
Dealer Standard Rates, Pricing, Terms & Policy
Dealer Package Durations are in 1, 3, 6 and 12 month intervals. All applicable fees at present are $39.00 per month, due in advance. If paid by Credit Card (Master Card/Visa) the Dealer Account is active immediately. If paying by check or money order, the Dealer account is active immediately but will be removed if payment has not been received and allowed to clear within 10 days of activation. All payment of fees are final and there are no refunds or returns. A Contract can not be cancelled once the Contract has been paid for. If a Dealer wants to cancel their obligation and association with EquineRV.com, they need only not renew the contract or duration that follows the current paid contract or duration. The Dealer is responsible for the content of each trailer listing and any photos or videos uploaded with each ad. EquineRV.com expects all transactions between buyer and seller to be of the highest integrity. Equine RV LLC and/or EquineRV.com do not guarantee the sale of a Dealers Living Quarter Horse Trailer. We offer only the tools necessary to aid in the sale of a Living Quarter Horse Trailer and the tools to manage a Dealers online trailer inventory in which tools are included with a paid Dealer Contract. Any Delivery or Shipping fees are the sole responsibility of the buyer and/or seller.
New Dealers - 6 Months "FREE"
How to get started on you first 6 Months for "FREE"
When you click on "Start Here", that will begin the registration process to set up your Dealer account.
The first thing you'll see will be a "Payment Interval". Click on $39 per month.
As you manuver through registration, at the bottom of the registration page you will see a "Payment Method", - click on "Check or Money Order" and continue.
When you finish setting up your account, contactus@equinerv.com from the email address you entered, just to let us know your a new dealer and that you've completed the initial registration. You can then begin to post your Living Quarter Horse Trailers for Sale.
Naturally you will send no money and you will not be billed for any Payment Interval Fees.
We will let you know when your free period is about to end.
The Free Period does not apply to "Featured Trailers" on the Home Page.
If you have any questions, please feel free to contactus@equinerv.com
Thank you
Individual Pricing, Terms & Policy
An Individual can post their trailer ad or listing for $29 and it will "Run Until Sold". If paying by Credit Card (Master Card/Visa), all fees are due in advance and the ad listing will be active immediately. If paying by check or money order, the ad listing will also be active immediately but if payment is not received by Equine RV LLC at PO Box 16 Dawn, TX 79025 and allowed to clear within 10 days, the ad listing will be deleted. The Individual is not required to upload photos, but it is highly recommended. All payment of fees are final and there are no refunds or returns. An ad listing can not be cancelled once the ad has been listed and paid for. If an Individual wants to cancel their obligation and association with EquineRV.com, they need only contactus@equinerv.com. The Individual is responsible for the content of their trailer Listing. EquineRV.com expects all transactions between buyer and seller to be of the highest integrity. Equine RV LLC and/or EquineRV.com do not guarantee the sale of an individual’s Living Quarter Horse Trailer. We offer only the tools necessary, included with a paid listing, to aid in the sale of a Living Quarter Horse Trailer. Any Delivery or Shipping fees are the sole responsibility of the buyer and/or seller.
Fraud, How to tell if a Listing is Fraudulent
Below is a response about a trailer listing I had on the Internet. This guy put a sign in the middle of his forehead that should of said "I am wanting to steal your money, OK?" This response is very telling. If you see anything close to this, stay away. Read the language, that should be the first red flag. Then he says he'll pay what I'm asking, then he says he wants my best price. This guys is looking for a very low flying angel.
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Hi thanks am glad to read from you ,will appreciate more pictures... i am a marine engineer, i am at sea right now.I am buying this for my son as a surprise promise Gift so am willing to offer you the amount you required. I can only pay through PayPal at the moment as i don't have access to my bank account online(i don't have internet banking with it), but i have it attached to my PayPal account, and this is why i insisted on using PayPal to pay,all i will need is your PayPal email address to make the payments, and if you don't have a PayPal account yet, you can set one up at www.paypal.com it cant take you less than 3mins to do that, i will be expecting your PayPal email so l can pay and also get back to me with your best price on this. I have a pick up agent that will come for the pick up after payments has been sorted.
l will be waiting for your reply asap
Regards brine
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If the price is too good to be true, Stay Away!
If your gut feeling says something is screwy, Stay Away!
If you're not sure, forward the ERV # of the fraudulent looking listing to us, and we'll let you know asap.
contactus@equinerv.com
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